The neon lights of this betel nut kiosk lure in passing drivers. At a glance, it may seem like a rather dodgy place, but that is not the case. A photo from Masato Seto’s “binran” collection.

Masato Seto: The Sweet Allure of Betel Nut Beauties

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A glass kiosk stands at the side of the highway, covered in gaudy neon lights. Inside, a young woman with her body more exposed than covered sits at a glass table, making something. Photographer Masato Seto spotted this mysterious scene when on assignment in Taiwan, and later covered it in his binran photo collection. Today, Seto introduces us to the hidden world of betel nut (bīnláng) stands.

Written by Chiemi
Translated by Kevin Mcgue

How did this project start?


The cover of Masato Seto’s “binran,” published by Little More.

I spent about one week in Taiwan when on assignment for a travel magazine. When driving back from the mountains at night, I noticed several small kiosks that I hadn’t noticed during daylight. My interest was piqued, and I got closer, noticing the girls inside making and selling things. I was curious about just what it was they were making, and when I got back to Japan, I looked into it. I learned that this is the usual way betel nuts are sold.

What are betel nuts?

They are seeds from the Areca palm tree, about the size of quail eggs. The seeds are split in half, spread with lime and pepper, and wrapped in betel leaves. They are then chewed like gum. They excrete a red juice when sucked on that gives a buzz. The prices vary by season, but a box which resembles a cigarette box holding 10 pieces sells for around two dollars. They are mostly chewed by men and older people, and are sold all over Southeast Asia.

A Binlang Xi Shi (betel nut girl) surrounded by neon lights. From “binran.”

And what made you decide to start taking pictures of betel nut girls?

At first, I thought it was a hidden part of society, and it wouldn’t be possible to take photos of it. But when I looked into it, I found out that was not the case, and so I went back to start taking pictures. Of course, the betel nut girls can only speak Taiwanese, so I found someone to translate for me. Then I started taking photos in a particular area, before moving on to the next area.

Are the kiosks all over Taiwan?

Yes, they are. In Taipei, they are usually sold by old women. The type of kiosks that appear in my photos are all from outside of the capital. They are along the highways, but I did not know the exact locations, so I would ask taxi drivers.

It’s hard to imagine what it is like to drive up to one of the kiosks.

When a car pulls up, the girls come out and ask, “What’ll you have?” Drivers will answer “give me some water” or “give me some betel nuts,” and hand over some money. The girls reply “got it,” and go get the order. The places that have popular girls will have people waiting, even if the place next door is empty.

The neon sign on the upper right reads “bīnláng,” meaning “betel nuts.” From “binran.”

But why are the kiosks mostly glass, and the girls mostly undressed?

I think that is simply a way of bringing in business. These used to be more like neighborhood tobacco stands, but they all started to change around 20 years ago. Seeing this as a Japanese person, I thought that since these stands are not in a red light district like Kabukicho, then there must be some opposition from other businesses in the area, but that seems not to be the case.

So are they something like Budweiser girls?

Yes, that’s right! But they are not discriminated against, and appear to be on good terms with the neighbors.

Looking at the photos, there’s a certain darkness that comes off from these girls. Did you get a chance to talk to them?

Yes, I did speak with them. They are employees, and work morning, day, and night shifts at the kiosks that are open 24 hours a day. At night, there are always girls around, and they seem to make good wages. They are actually quite positive about what they do.

This kiosk looks rather sterile. From “binran.”

Some of the photos in the collection show the girls looking quite at home, bringing their personal things into the shops, and painting their nails. Is that just to kill time?

Yes, that’s right. They also prepare the betel nuts in the shops, so there is always a table in every shop.

The red basket on the table must be filled with freshly made betel nuts. From “binran.”

Could you tell us how you went about taking the photos? Did you make rules for yourself?

I don’t just snap pictures. I use a tripod and set up the shots. But then I would tell them, “I’ll take it now,” which would suddenly make the girls feel self-conscious about what they were doing. I didn’t want to capture just the atmosphere, but also the details in a real way.

I think a lot of people will find out about betel nut stands for the first time from this article. Do you have any message for them?


Masato Seto at the Place M gallery in Shinjuku.

I would like everyone to go to Taiwan and check it out for themselves. Everyone is fun to talk to. Start by driving down the highway.

Finally, you often photograph people. What is the attraction of photographing people?

The things that people do are interesting, and this comes through on their faces. People are really mysterious, so I want to go on photographing them.

Masato Seto, thank you for introducing us to the world of betel nut kiosks!

  • vincent

    i’m from malaysia and i really miss “binran” and “binran meimei” from taiwan…..

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  • Cyrex

    Why the betel nuts kiosk spreads along down the highway is because the part of key consumers of betel nuts in Taiwan are truck drivers. By chewing betel nuts would uplift the spirit due the ingredients in the betel nuts & blened materials, so truck drivers who have to drive over whole night chew it to avoid from falling into sleep while driving.
    Actually the chewing betel nuts is a rooted culture in Taiwan, hence, betel nut business has its own completed flow of supply chain and unique operating model. With the instil of marketing, betel nuts stand started to have these fancy kiosk and undressed xi-shi (in Mandarin it means “beautiful girl”), however, there are still no dominated brand in this fragmented industry.
    Interesting, the betel kiosk sometimes plays a role of community safty, as it’s operated 24hrs and betel nut xi-shi inside the kiosk would overlook any movement in nearby. One of my friends had a serious car accidence 10 years ago in the dark country side in midnight, he was rescued by the betel nut xi-shi who did the first aid to my friend before the ambulence was arrived.
    Writing too much, Taiwan is a small but amazing isle where definitely deserves a look.
    - stranger from Taiwan but away from Taiwan for many years…

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    There is a surreal feeling to the photos.

    Interesting article. Thank you.

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  • vjwpfang

    Reminds me of the good old summer times I used to spend in Taiwan!!

  • http://www.duzodesign.com Timothy

    Wow. I would love to see these places pop up in Connecticut…

  • fujimoto yu

    These shots are rubbish don’t you think? terrible photos in my opinion, “tripod” or not.

  • http://www.ma-ho.com martin

    Totally devoid of commitment and true effort. The ‘tripod explanation’ is hilarious. Fujimoto yu nailed it, those shots are rubbish.
    There is already much better stuff out there, even on flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/tobie_openshaw/sets/72157594581621891/

  • Kat

    The first place I’d heard of betel nuts was my first listen to the Rodgers n Hammerstein musical “South Pacific,” where the sailors sing about the character “Bloody Mary.”

    I didn’t think this kind of thing was sold nowadays, but I guess it is. It’s a good thing the xi-shi are comfortable with their bodies and being “on display.” Even if I were as svelte as they are, my Western upbringing would prevent me from dressing in such a revealing way. Must be nice to feel such physical freedom as that.

  • http://www.whiterabbitpress.com Max Hodges

    yeah, shots are a bit horrid in my opinion. those flickr shots are much better.

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    I would have preferred a more engaging approach to the photography too. Maybe its just the photographer’s style.

  • http://www.ruanbenade.co.za Ruan

    One of the first photographers to explore Binlang girls is Chin-Pao Chen. He has had international exhibitions and published a beautiful book called “A moment of Beauty: A collection of images of Betel Nut Girls”. His images are more raw and composed and taken with film which has a unique feel.

  • karl

    And there is a movie by Cheng-sheng Lin from 2001 “Ai ni ai wo” revolving around them.

    http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0275902/

  • http://www.myspace.com/raar Jake Pegg

    Taiwan is indeed a wonderful and gorgeous place. Most of it is a tropical island, lush, mountainous, and breathtaking, and the people are incredibly sweet and hospitable.

    From my brief time in Taiwan I’d have to say that the most common binlang users I saw were members of Taiwan’s dozen-or-so aboriginal tribes – ESPECIALLY old people. (Caveat: I spent most of my time there working with them)

    Supposedly truck drivers brought the habit (generally considered a filthy one, like smoking) over to the non-native population.

    I saw more binglang sold in little ziplock bags, not split open, in the fridge at convenience stores, or by old people on the street, who were also preparing it.

    It’s worth mentioning a few things:

    • areca nuts by themselves are not psychoactive. You can chew them all day and not catch a buzz.

    • Having seen both, I’m almost sure that the leaf used to wrap the nut is different from the one on the areca palm.

    • To render the concoction active, a small amount of (often flavored) lye paste is spread inside the leaf. This is also what turns the juice red.

    • That red stains users teeth, as well as everything it touches, including sidewalks everywhere, which are also littered with spent, fibrous betel nut remnants.

    • The lye also totally wrecks users’ teeth and gums – they aren’t as bad as meth-head teeth, but they’re bad.

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  • http://www.genariyo.wordpress.com Lots

    i’ve never had betel nuts, but now i think i want to try some just for the experience =)

  • http://www.whiterabbitpress.com max hodges

    interesting:

    The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) regards the chewing of betel and areca nut to be a known human carcinogen.[3] Certain studies have sought to prove that regular chewers of betel leaf and areca nut have a higher risk of damaging their gums and acquiring cancer of the mouth, pharynx, oesophagus and stomach. [4], [5]. Studies have found tobacco and caustic lime increase the risk of cancer from betel nut preparation

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  • funnygirl

    i heard once that come of the betel nut girls can be prostitutes though, is that true? I am really confused. I was in taiwan with locals for six weeks and that was what we were told…

    could someone clear that up for me

  • ma65p

    Hi, I’m a Vietnamese and I think you are talking about the stuff that my grandmother used to chew everyday. She rolled the nut into a leaf and then put something else in it, like powder of some sort and then chewed it all day. It made her mouth turned really red and her teeth eventually turned black. She also had surprisingly strong teeth even for such old age (bones in soups are usually chewed until they dry out of juice). Also, it is a very common things most old people do in Vietnam. Just some fact, hopefully I didn’t disgust anyone, if I did, my apology.

  • http://www.flickr.com/photos/tobie_openshaw/sets/72157594581621891/ Tobie Openshaw

    Thanks to those who though my photo set was better than Masato’s :)
    I think his approach is just different,though. Photographing the girls is really difficult, and most of the time they won’t even agree to a snapshot. So kudos to him for getting set-up shots like this. My own photos usually tend to be much more in a run-and-gun, available-light-only style. Oh and to the person who mentioned Chin-Pao Chen, yes his photos are great, I have exhibited together with him and he is a very nice person too. His photos are from almost 10 years ago, though, and the business has changed a lot in that period. My own photos span about 5 years and reflect a more recent reality.

    By all means visit my gallery and leave a comment! http://www.flickr.com/photos/tobie_openshaw/sets/72157594581621891/

    Tobie Openshaw

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  • Pingback: Betel Nut Beauties - Scantily Clad Taiwanese Women selling behind glass cubicles

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    The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) regards the chewing of betel and areca nut to be a known human carcinogen.[3] Certain studies have sought to prove that regular chewers of betel leaf and areca nut have a higher risk of damaging their gums and acquiring cancer of the mouth, pharynx, oesophagus and stomach. [4], [5]. Studies have found tobacco and caustic lime increase the risk of cancer from betel nut preparation

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