Yonuko’s Beautiful Hair Pins: Make New From Old

12 Jun 2008 Category: Arts & Crafts

Yonuko’s Beautiful Hair Pins: Make New From Old

Tender beauty! This 'tsumami-kanzashi,' a decorative hair pin from Japan, bears a magnificent design recalling goldfish. Delicately it updates tradition with a contemporary look.

Attention, ladies! Tsumami-kanzashi are exquisite hair pins made from thin silk called ‘habutae,’ often designed to resemble filigree flowers or butterflies. This ancient Japanese craft dates back to the Edo Period (1603-1867) and, sadly, nowadays they are only worn with traditional Japanese attire on special occasions such as Shichi-Go-San or Coming of Age Day. To change that, PingMag talks with artist Yonuko who aims to revive that craft with her beautifully modern style tsumami-kanzashi that are made of old kimono fabrics.

Written by Ryoko
Translated by Kevin Mcgue

First, how did you get started making tsumami-kanzashi?

I went to a vocational school in Nara to study Japanese clothing manufacture, but they were extremely strict in their teaching method. I couldn’t take it any more and decided to quit and return to Tokyo. To turn over a new leaf, I opened a photo exhibition just for fun. It was a bit boring to fill the exhibition space with just photos, so I remembered a tsumami-kanzashi kit that I had bought at a workshop, made it in my own special style, and displayed it as well.


No doubt, a lacy tsumami-kanzashi adorns every hair.

Quite unexpectedly, someone who runs a shop in Tokyo took an interest in my hair pin at the exhibition. That was really how it all began, and I started an original brand called Himeko, meaning ‘princess child.’ Since all females, from children to elderly women, should experience what it feels like to be a princess.


What a soothing colour combination of violet, yellow and green!

Oh my! What a cute shape, you have to admit!

Moreover, this one has a nice name: “Parasol.”

This elegant one with a pearl can also be used as shawl pin.

Himeko tsumami-kanzashi hair pins have quite modern designs…

Traditional kanzashi hair pins have a certain dignity that is really beautiful, but they are difficult to coordinate with Western clothing. That is why they are not worn so often. That is too bad, as it is sad to see a tradition fading away with the passing of time. So, I am making Himeko kanzashi for women to easily wear them with everyday clothing and in various seasons.


Imagine, this design is based on mountain flowers. Photo by a-yarn

And this marvellous one is based on rape blossoms! Photo by a-yarn

What kind of materials do you use?

Most tsumami-kanzashi pins are made from a type of silk called habutae, but I use old kimono lining. Habutae is quite thin and shiny. However, the material I use is a bit thicker and the colours are a bit muddier to make the feel and colour really go well with casual clothing.

With old fabrics, each one is uniquely made.

And how do you transform the fabric into tsumami-kanzashi?

First of all I cut the fabric into little squares. Holding the squares with tweezers, I fold them to create shapes. While they are still folding into the shapes, I paste them one by one onto a piece of fabric that serves as the base. Then I add beads or small natural stones for decoration –– and it is finished.


Fabric cut into small squares…

…folding the fabric into shapes…

…lastly adding beads to finish the piece.

The tools for a simple tsumami-kanzashi.

This work is so detailed! Your experience in studying how to make Japanese clothing must have been quite useful for that. How long does it take to make one piece?

Well, I try to finish in one or two hours, but I often can’t finish within that time. (Laughs) With tsumami-kanzashi, the balance of the feel of the materials and the combination of colours is very important, and you really don’t know what it will be like until you make it and see it with your own eyes. So even if I draw the design first, it turns out different in the end. So, the only thing I can do is to think of a design in my mind. I have gotten a little better at imagining designs, but often the actual piece still doesn’t turn out that way. Perhaps the only way to improve is to get more experience…

What vibrant colours and flowery patterns!


Another rainbow array of colours with this piece, entitled “Heart.”

Just like real flower petals — a piece, entitled “Pink.”

And you never run out of ideas for new designs?

At first I was really absorbed in making these, so I had lots of ideas. However, now three years have passed and it is hard to think of new ideas, and I often get stuck. (Laughs) I think that as I get more technique and experience, I will probably become more conservative in my designs.

Utter chicness for the elegant women.

What do you do to get new inspiration?

I go back to a piece I made at the beginning, when I was really into it, and remake it. I feel that at that time I had a very energetic sense of creativity, but I didn’t have experience, so I was full of vigour to try challenging pieces. Now I am trying to improve on those.

Yonuko teaching how to make tsumami-kanzashi at one of her workshops.

Very well! What would be your next challenges in terms of making tsumami-kanzashi hair pins?

I am planning to hold solo and group exhibitions. Also, I am hoping to hold more workshops, because I want to spread the art of tsumami-kanzashi.

Yonuko, thank you for telling as all about this fascinating art!

103 Comments

  1. Wonderful article and beautiful art! I am trying to find larger size images like the ones seen above — I’d like to use one as my desktop background. I visited Yonuko’s website, and saw some wonderful images, but they are still too small… they pixelize when enlarged. Does anyone know of a way to get ahold of larger images? thanks!

    Posted by: joachim on June 12th, 2008 at 8:07 pm

  2. gorgeous! thanks for this article.

    Posted by: selena on June 12th, 2008 at 8:42 pm

  3. So incredibly beautiful - wow.

    Posted by: Amy C on June 12th, 2008 at 9:28 pm

  4. How delicately they are made!

    Posted by: shinyhappypeople on June 12th, 2008 at 11:20 pm

  5. wow these are so beautiful >_< i would like to learn how to make those too.

    thankyou for the wonderful post =D

    Posted by: edohsama on June 12th, 2008 at 11:48 pm

  6. [...] from Pingmag writes an interview feature on the renovation of traditional silk craft into modern hair pin design. Posted by Oiwan Lam Share [...]

    Posted by: Global Voices Online » Japan: Hair Pin Art on June 13th, 2008 at 1:44 am

  7. [...] from Pingmag writes an interview feature on the renovation of traditional silk craft into modern hair pin design. Posted by Oiwan Lam Share [...]

    Posted by: Global Voices Online » Japan: Hair Pin Art on June 13th, 2008 at 1:44 am

  8. [...] unknown wrote an interesting post today onHere’s a quick excerptTsumami-kanzashi are exquisite hair pins made from thin silk called ‘habutae,’ often designed to resemble filigree flowers or butterflies. This ancient Japanese craft dates back to the Edo Period (1603-1867) and, sadly, nowadays they … [...]

    Posted by: Yonuko’s Beautiful Hair Pins: Make New From Old | Hairstyles for Men and Women on June 13th, 2008 at 3:17 am

  9. fantastic!!

    Posted by: I vestiti di Carlotta on June 13th, 2008 at 4:44 am

  10. Incredible!
    Wondering if these are for sale outside of Japan?

    Posted by: una on June 13th, 2008 at 6:54 am

  11. there’s something about that last picture that’s very heartwarming :)

    Posted by: asyuta on June 13th, 2008 at 2:55 pm

  12. If only I had a girlfriend I could give this to! Amazing colours, and great pieces of clothing as well as art, too!

    Posted by: David on June 14th, 2008 at 1:12 am

  13. [...] occasions. Now these hair pins can be worn everyday made possible by these beautiful design from Yonuko, who gives a great interview at Pingmag. For anyone who love nature this will be a special treat.If [...]

    Posted by: Jay Jay Fashion » Tsumami-kanzashi hair pins on June 14th, 2008 at 4:46 am

  14. this just makes the day a much more beautifuly detailed sense…and touch.
    brings inside thew feeling of never letting go the little things…(put a smile on your face).

    (^u^)

    Posted by: sekushy on June 14th, 2008 at 8:50 pm

  15. aw that stuff’s adorable.

    Posted by: njlsml223 on June 16th, 2008 at 1:02 pm

  16. its very creative collection!

    Posted by: Paavani on June 16th, 2008 at 4:20 pm

  17. [...] PingMag, dove ho trovato la notizia, c’è anche un’intervista all’artista oltre alle foto [...]

    Posted by: Himeko: da vecchi kimono a fermacapelli – Frizzifrizzi.it on July 1st, 2008 at 6:00 pm

  18. Thank you for inspiration.
    All is beautiful.

    Posted by: Natália on July 5th, 2008 at 3:58 am

  19. [...] il giusto equilibrio fra i colori e le stoffe e se quello che fa non le va bene ricomincia da capo. Qui trovate l’intervista completa in inglese. Qui alcune foto, e questo è il sito, purtroppo in [...]

    Posted by: I fermacapelli di Yonuko « Il bubbo cine on July 8th, 2008 at 2:52 am

  20. Does anyone know if it is possibile to buy them from Italy???
    they are so amazing!!!

    Posted by: cecilia on July 8th, 2008 at 6:27 pm

  21. wow, theyre really beautiful.

    Posted by: karma on September 11th, 2008 at 3:13 am

  22. [...] Tsumami Kanzashi [...]

    Posted by: wishlists « mouse in a storm on October 16th, 2008 at 5:06 pm

  23. where can i find her???

    Posted by: Shaan on November 8th, 2008 at 8:56 pm

  24. Do you sell these beautiful hair pins?
    Where?

    Posted by: Diana on January 31st, 2009 at 7:09 am

  25. [...] Read the full story>>> [...]

    Posted by: Kevin Mcgue - Tokyo-Based Journalist & Filmmaker » Yonuko’s Beautiful Hair Pins: Make New From Old on March 2nd, 2009 at 10:18 pm

  26. it’s wonder…………ful

    Posted by: aman basi on March 25th, 2009 at 1:07 pm

  27. I just find that the Kanzashi flowers are so beautiful. I want to make some Kanzashi flowers myself. I want to know how can I start? I am from Beijing. Thank you so much!

    Posted by: Aissa on September 13th, 2009 at 3:28 pm

  28. Hello!
    I am Ruby Geary from Northern Ireland,UK.
    I am really interested to do that Kanzashi fabric flowers. I am an artist. How can I contact to learn this fabric flowers from you?
    Thank you .
    Regards, Ruby

    Posted by: Ruby Geary on November 9th, 2009 at 8:30 pm

  29. Hello!
    I am Ruby Geary from Northern Ireland,UK.
    I am really interested to do that Kanzashi fabric flowers. I am an artist. How can I contact to learn this fabric flowers from you?
    My email.is ruby.bushmills@googlemail.com.

    Thank you .
    Regards, Ruby

    Posted by: Ruby Geary on November 9th, 2009 at 8:31 pm

  30. Wow.. I admire the work, the details are amazing. Maybe you can give classes online?

    Posted by: Silvia on February 1st, 2010 at 12:43 am

  31. so beatifull!

    Posted by: sigaretta elettronica on April 3rd, 2010 at 11:39 am

  32. [...] Read the English version at PingMag» [...]

    Posted by: Kevin Mcgue | “Yonuko’s Beautiful Hair Pins: Make New From Old” Translation on April 16th, 2010 at 11:13 pm

  33. [...] Hrifning Japana á litlum, litríkum hlutum er ekki nýtilkomin. Um daginn var ég að lesa mér til um gamla japanska handiðn sem er kölluð tsunami kanzashi sem er handunnið hárskraut sem er unnið úr japönsku silki og japanskar konur hafa borið í margar aldir. Mér finnst þetta svo fallegt og ég elska litagleði Japana. Mig langar að læra að gera svona! Lesa meira hér. [...]

    Posted by: Kawai | on September 30th, 2010 at 7:46 pm

  34. Hi,
    I am really impressed and think the hairpins are very beautiful. Where can I buy these? Please answer me :)
    My e-mail: justine_flame@yahoo.com
    Thanks!
    BR Justine

    Posted by: Justine on December 7th, 2010 at 3:02 am

  35. [...] Un autre type de kanzashi - Tsumami - est fabriqué à partir de petits carrés (ou ronds) de soie pliés (même procédé qu’origami) qui deviennent ensuite pétales de fleurs plus au moins complexes, petites feuilles, ailes de papillon. Les tsumami contemporains de Yonuko, poétiques et colorés, sont crées à partir de tissus de kimonos anciens et redonnent vie à cette technique et à ces accessoires de geisha ou de mariage Shintô (via PingMag). [...]

    Posted by: Kanzashi « Des choses on January 10th, 2011 at 3:32 am

  36. Hi I think they are beautiful and I’m interested in purchasing one for my long hair too.

    Posted by: tam on February 4th, 2011 at 3:01 pm

  37. This website sells fabulous traditional tsumami kanzashi from a professional artist and are available in the US. They have a fantastic variety and the designs are unbelievable.

    Posted by: Kimiko on February 26th, 2011 at 11:32 pm

  38. whoops - here’s the website

    http://www.etsy.com/shop/kanzashistudio

    Posted by: Kimiko on February 26th, 2011 at 11:33 pm

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