Jum Nakao: Paper Fashion Art

3 Dec 2007 Category: Fashion, Features, Worldwide

Jum Nakao: Paper Fashion Art

Entirely made of paper: Sao Paulo-based Jum Nakao's fashion line A costura do invisivel. Excerpt from the book by Nakao that was made afterwards.

Art and fashion, costume design and animation - Brazilian Jum Nakao is versatile and playful: Either turning his “A costura do invisivel” fashion show into a happening, where his most delicate paper dresses get torn apart. Or making his whole line a tribute to acclaimed animation filmmakers the Brothers Quay… Now, for the launch of a new egg-shaped mini washing machine called Eggo he created an installation with flying paper bird and nests. PingMag went by this friendly and forthcoming fashion designer of Japanese descent in his studio in Sao Paulo.

Written by Aroldo Cardoso Jr.

Jum’s installation for the Eggo launch: Letting the mini washing machine get delivered by a stork made of a thousand paper sheets. Photo by Mauricio Marconi.

Let’s start with your latest installation for the Eggo, an egg-shaped mini washing machine…


The paper nest for the Eggo, by Jum.

Eggo was made by Brazilian Brastemp, and they invited me to do the launching concept: I imagined to showcase it by bringing to it a significance of birth. A strong symbol would be a baby-delivering stork. For that, I used more than a thousand sheets of white vegetable paper for the stork and the nests. It was carried through with puppet designer Naná Lavander, she did “Castelo Rá Tim Bum” [a popular Brazilian TV show], fashion designer Agustina Comas and Ana, a designer who worked with me for a long time at the POP agency. We materialised a flying, mechanised stork with an egg in its beak, and put some eggs on the ground. Then, we had to make it possible for the bird to move, the gears, the construction technique… which took two months to make. Also, we asked artist Paulo Beto to recreate the sounds of an ultrasound prenatal exam which sounds kind of watery and at the same time windy.


Made of paper: Jum’s fashion line A costura do invisivel…

… from 2004, meaning ’sewing the invisible.’

The paper fashion line…

… was to be torn apart during the show.

Beautiful shooting! The A costura do invisivel fashion line as photographed afterwards.

So, the stork is an animal of low weight, flying in the air… Did you search for a certain lightness?

All of my works, for example the paper-made “A costura do invisivel” fashion line , have a playful relationship with the spectator. This lightness is necessary to get a distance from reality and a connection with the invisible, with people’s imagination, to let them see it from a different perspective - a less realistic one. These works lack concreteness and a clearly defined form, which would not allow the spectator’s personal interpretation. I see them more as an interface, so whoever looks at them participates and is able to find its own meanings.

This year, the “A costura do invisivel” fashion line was made into the Revolver installation at Museu Oscar Niemeyer in Curitiba. Here, Jum Nakao is preparing the miniature models.

Then in the “Revolver” exhibition, these puppets with tiny paper dresses were attacked by mice…

… until all were destroyed - while being projected on a huge wall. Some film footage here.

Right. So it’s about avoiding concreteness to give room to interpretation…

It is that term used by Calvin: The precise use of the vague which allows the reading of a more playful universe. Maybe, playful is the word. Even though, people get heavy with both as time passes. See for example the Revolver exhibition I did this year with Julio Dojcsar and Kiko Araújo at Museu Oscar Niemeyer in Curitiba [‘revolver’ in Portuguese means ‘to play with’ or ‘to mess with it and put it in some other way’]: Its playful element disarms people a bit and conducts them to a much broader experimentation that is less restrictive, less formatted. It’s an experiment, where the playful element is only a catalyst.

Sketches for the post-modern opera Kseni - A Estrangeira from 2006. Together with Kiko Araujo, Jum was its art director. It was staged in Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paulo and, this October, in Germany.

For the opera, Jum created dresses made of straps…

… like straight-jackets.

Revolver was made after your fashion show in 2004…


Setting for the animated short film Hoje é dia de Maria…

Yes. Together with cinema director Kiko Araújo and urban intervention and scenography artist Julio Dojcsar, we proposed an installation based on that fashion show. We wanted to create something that dialogued with the architectural space that Oscar Niemeyer built. If you look at it, it is a huge space surrounded by a ceiling and a concave-convex floor, and almost a football field in the middle. So, in the corridor that gives access to the steps going up to this field, we already used an element of “lightness” we earlier talked about. It was with a phrase written on the main wall: O rato roeu a roupa do rei de Roma, which roughly translates into “the rat bit the king of Rome’s clothes”. That, within this context, already created some doubt, forming something in people’s imagination.

… and Jum’s most beautiful costumes for the puppets in Hoje é dia de Maria. Watch the short animation here.

After this, there was another sentence: O rei está nu, for ‘the king is naked,’ which would already establish a counterpoint with that first phrase.
And, below, there is a rat almost two metres high that we elected as icon for this exhibition - the rat is very much connected to a plague, to a viral communication that propagates in an uncontrolled way. It would in some way corrupt the natural order. Then, when going up the stairs, each floor has a stage of the process of the fashion show: In the beginning, you see the end where the models have all their clothes torn apart. And on the last floor, there’s one of the model with impeccable clothes - from deconstruction to semi-construction and back to the intact clothes.

As tribute to the Quay Brothers, Jum together with great Brazilian agency Lobo styled his 2003/2004 catalogue in their spirit - and even called it Brothers Quay. Awesome! To cite their influences, Jum and Lobo got inspired by the works of Jan Svankmajer, Magritte, Luis Buñuel and Salvador Dalí.

Also from the 03/04 fashion catalogue…

… that was called Brothers Quay.

Okay. So there were different levels with models in several stages and photographs of the puppet replicas, and projections of the puppets with the clothes…

In the intermediary floor, we have a photo exhibition of the clothes by Sandra Bordin, with manual interferences, like scratches, to document the deterioration of these images. On the next floor, we have a documentation of the clothes in human scale. Then, on the main floor, the salon, we have four-meter-high projections of the puppet replicas that are actually 30 centimetres in height. Finally, there is one more floor where the whole process of crafting the clothes is documented by another photographer, Alexandre Perroca, showing all the complexity of the work step-by-step.


From the catwalk: The Brothers Quay fashion line…

… inspired by the eponymous animation filmmakers.

Also from the Brothers Quay fashion show 03/04.

What was the thing with the rats destroying the clothes?

This is in the huge salon, the field: On one side you have the miniature paper models of the puppets in a glass cabinet, and on the other side you can see their filmed projections on one wall - with real rats running around these miniature paper models, devouring the clothes, tearing them apart and destroying everything.

Another chiaroscuro! Jum’s lamp design for Dominici, conveys volume by playing with light and shadow. Coupled with different line concentrations, it can regulate the amount of volume given to a room.

And I think that all your other works have several levels or stages of reflection… Sorry we can’t go into that deeper for today. Thank you, Jum Nakao.

Jum’s studio in Sao Paulo.

91 Comments

  1. These are very creative costumes, inspiring! Not so terribly new, I think I’ve seen this before somewhere…but nevertheless they’re magical!

    Posted by: Amir on December 3rd, 2007 at 11:00 pm

  2. The designs are quite inspiring. The above comment not so much.

    Posted by: jonny r. on December 4th, 2007 at 8:14 am

  3. ha! deleted the above mentioned SPAM comment…

    Posted by: Verena on December 4th, 2007 at 12:33 pm

  4. paper fashion is eco friendly?

    Posted by: keanu on December 4th, 2007 at 6:22 pm

  5. Eco frindly!?

    You don’t get the idea…

    Posted by: Maria Angelica on December 4th, 2007 at 9:53 pm

  6. i doubt these are meant to be mass produced, so eco friendly or not it’s not really an issue.

    the aesthetic here is beautifully realised nonetheless.

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  8. I think the designs are incredible, the head pieces are rather like Weibe Simms, what a lovely surprise to see such sculptural work… where can I see them for real?

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  9. Jum created the paper dresses to be torn apart in a fashion show. He made a book, called “A Costura do Invisivel” (”The Sewing of the Invisible”), where we can see pics taken before and during the show.

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