The Delicateness Of Isekatagami Patterns

15 Nov 2007 Category: Arts & Crafts, Features, Japan

The Delicateness Of Isekatagami Patterns

What a lovely fine carving up to every detail! The “Fuji-cherry blossom” pattern created by Haruki Rokutani, courtesy of Courtesy of Isekatagami specialists, Oosugi.

Take a closer look and admire this beautiful Fuji-zakura pattern on the special Japanese paper above, keep exploring the very fine details expressed with intricate carving… This is called Isekatagami, a unique-to-Japan delicate pattern created with brilliant craftsmanship. Today, PingMag explains all about Isekatagami and visits an Isekatagami workshop.

Written by Ryoko
Translated by Rie Ishimi

What exactly is Isekatagami ?

Isekatagami is just one of the methods for producing the patterns used for dyeing designs for kimono and yukata and is named after Ise in the Mie Prefecture, where the technique originated. Originally, it was intended for putting designs on kamishimo, traditional ceremonial garb for samurai. However, as the technique spread throughout the country, demand for the unique designs grew, and soon Isekatagami was being used to dye fabrics for many kinds of items, such as yukata, tenugui (a small Japanese towel), furniture, lighting equipment and lots of other art crafts. Today, people continue to be amazed by the splendour of its artistic qualities and these patterns have become collectors’ items!


A pattern used for illumination, “Shibu-akari, Rangiku-zukushi.” Courtesy of Isekatagami specialists, Oosugi.

What a warm light shining through these fine chrysanthemum petals. Cosy! Courtesy of Isekatagami specialists, Oosugi.

An equally astonishing pattern for “Mukae-ougi” decorations for a fusuma door. Courtesy of Isekatagami specialists, Oosugi.

How does it work?

For Isekatagami, three sheets of washi (Japanese paper) are pasted together with a reddish-brown paste called kakishibu, which is made from the persimmon fruit. This paste is said to have antiseptic and waterproof effects, which is why it has been used for a very long time to treat paper in Japan. The paper prepared this way becomes a stencil, called shibugami.


Argh! The kakishibu, astringent persimmon juice, is a little sticky.

It takes quite some effort to make shibugami…

Next, the pattern used for a roll of cloth such as a kimono is called “shabari.” After silk is woven onto the carved shibugami (stencil paper), this shabari pattern roll is coated with urushi (Japanese lacquer) for reinforcement and as solid finish. That process, is done with traditional exclusive materials such as silk and urushi produces quite luxurious result


Shabari pattern used for kimono and yukata, a traditional summer garment. Courtesy of Isekatagami specialists, Oosugi.

Close-up: See the intricate details! It is made from silk gauze and urushi. Courtesy of Isekatagami specialists, Oosugi.

Rolls of cloth dyed with shabari…

…and the knife for carving.

Making paper patterns with Isekatagami

We recently visited carver Kishiko Matsui at her workshop where she creates Isekatagami postcards at the traditional crafts centre in Katsushika-ku, Tokyo. There, she prepared shibugami (stencil paper), postcards and design knives. As we mentioned in the above, shibugami is water resistant, meaning that it doesn’t shrink and distort the patter, even if water-based pigments are used, and thus is ideal for postcards. Moreover, you can re-coat the patterns many times.


These shibugami sheets are a bit thicker than normal.

Since next year will be the Year of the Rat in Japan, many cute little mouse designs are being prepared.

Kishiko is drawing a rough design for an ink pattern. Fine carving needs fine skill and she carves the sheets while her apprentices start to make their jobs a bit easier.

Kishiko Matsui usually carves the designs according to her clients request, most of them being wholesale dealers. Her motto is always “to have any job with heart and soul.”

I was told by my father that I should alway do this work carefully. Therefore, I always carve with utmost care even if the design is very simple,” says Ms. Matsui.


It’s a Pikachu design!

Carving cautiously and carefully…

…and the next procedure is a fun painting done with watercolours. The trick is to paint by patting a brush, pushing colours through the stencil.

A sweet design for a New Year’s postcard is finished!

”My work depends on various people - people who draw the designs, the pattern carvers, people to dye material. The final product depends on all of these people. Therefore, I have to think about the craftsmen dyeing my material when I am carving it,” says Kishiko Matsui.


A bag made from cloth dyed with one of Kishiko Matsui’s patterns…

…with fine details.

Lovely! Kagami-mochi, a Japanese rice cake displayed in homes at the start of the year, is also a very popular motif for New Year’s cards. What a colourful graduation!

A running dog!

Kishiko Matsui hopes that with her workshop kids can have fun creating Isekatagami. A mother herself, she also thinks seriously about the environment surrounding children:

“I feel that children nowadays are raised in an overprotected environment. But when you carve, you might sometimes hurt yourself with the scissors or knife. Certainly this isn’t good, but if the kids don’t learn about pain, they won’t understand what taking a risk means. I think that it is an important experience in their growing process,” says Kishiko.

Colourful bird - and flower as ornament.

Ms. Matsui is proud of her job. So, what can be done to prevent the disappearance of the traditional crafts in Japan?

“To become a traditional craftsman gets more and more difficult and time passes. Although some children would like to “try,” it is a pity that we cannot let them. I hope that the authorities take action to improve the situation for people who are eager to become craftsmen,” Kishiko explains.

We thank everybody at Isekatagami specialists, Oosugi, the nice people who helped us at the traditional crafts centre and, of course, Kishiko Matsui! Please show us more of these beautiful Isekatagami.

47 Comments

  1. Gorgueous
    I love this art/craft
    (btw. I’m still trying to emulate the Komon pattern)

    Posted by: Ricardo on November 15th, 2007 at 7:35 pm

  2. Really wonderfull and crazy !
    The Fuji mont is represented with such a good taste. I love it !

    Posted by: Olivier on November 15th, 2007 at 8:05 pm

  3. interesting!

    Posted by: doubutsu on November 16th, 2007 at 1:41 am

  4. Completely awesome!!! Wow! This is one of the most impressive stuff I’ve seen on PingMag!
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  5. [...] The Delicateness Of Isekatagami Patterns [...]

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  6. Inspirational post! and very educational too. I always like paper cutting, stenciling, stamping.. it is fun to do!

    The cutting details are such fine and beautiful! Gotta love it

    Posted by: jayhan on November 16th, 2007 at 6:33 pm

  7. Stuff like is this is almost taken for granted in India and China, and in both countries is usually much more intricate and artistic than in Japan. I guess it helps to have a smaller population in a country with limited talent, because it’s easier to give it a name, market it as special, and have droves of people - from within and outside Japan - drooling over its simple beauty.

    Posted by: Smallpup on November 17th, 2007 at 5:39 pm

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  10. I’m fascinated by paper, textile and crafts associated with it. Japanese culture inspires me a lot in that regard. Thank you Pingmag for sharing this beauty.

    I think that Smallpup wants to say that is India and China are underexposed compared to Japan and I share that point of view. Then, I find Japanese crafts to be as distinct as those of China and India.

    Posted by: Baglan on November 21st, 2007 at 1:38 am

  11. This is inspiring. I’ve this idea of making stencils and painting on Tees. Nice patterns…!

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