SOU・SOU: Sneaker-style Jikatabi

24 Aug 2007 Category: Fashion, Features, Japan

SOU・SOU: Sneaker-style Jikatabi

Let's split! Model "KO-KA-GE" in leaf green and whitish from Kyoto-based jikatabi designers SOU・SOU. Courtesy of SOU・SOU.

These boots will turn heads! A while back, we showed you the stylish gear Japanese construction workers wear. Now we plunge into the topic again, with field research into jikatabi, split-toe canvas shoes with rubber soles that are favored by construction workers. Although jikatabi are almost always black, Kyoto-based company SOU・SOU is enhancing these work boots with designer patterns, bringing this traditional footwear to a sneaker-loving crowd. PingMag asked SOU・SOU designer Maki Hashimoto all about split toes.

Written by Julia Deimann

Espadrilles are so passé! Make way for SOU・SOU’s jikatabi, simple edition - and all hand-sewn! Courtesy of SOU・SOU.

Surely, SOU・SOU is not the first company to give Japanese jikatabi a modern look. Back in the 1980s, Martin Margiela couldn’t resist Japanese functionality and created a high-heel jikatabi. A couple of years ago you might have stumbled upon Nike’s jikatabi-style Air Rift, which was inspired by the barefoot sprinting national team of Kenya. Some of you martial arts fans may think these are ninja shoes, but they are the traditional footwear of gardeners and construction workers. Only now they have been updated for the fashion-obsessed.

I bet they’d look good on a skateboard, too! SOU・SOU’s model “TA-I-RU.” Courtesy of SOU・SOU.

An Harmonic Separation

But - why on earth do these boots have split toes?

“The separation gives you a better grip. Therefore, the toes are just as important as thumb and fingers. Imagine clinging to a horizontal bar: It is a lot different whether your thumb is above together with the other fingers or alone below the bar. The same goes for jikatabi’s separated toe. It will let you have the best performance both spontaneously and continuously. Additionally, due to the light sole, you can feel the unevenness of the ground and this gives you a good massage effect,” explains SOU・SOU designer Maki Hashimoto from Kyoto.

These are the practical reasons why Japanese workers, be it on construction sites or in gardens, have traditionally worn jikatabi and continue to do so today. As has often happened, work wear has entered the realm of fashion:

“It is not unusual that articles that once have been work wear are turned into fashion items. Just think of jeans, military clothes, even jeeps… They all exceeded their original purpose to be adapted as everyday life products. Jikatabi are a very ‘noble’ footwear, because they combine three factors: a unique look, high functionality and the representation of traditional Japanese footwear,“ says Maki Hashimoto.


Template tools…

…to cut out the shoe fabric.

Then the rubber sole…

…is sewn on.

Local Flavours

Another important aspect of Sou Sou’s jikatabi lines is the local influence of the areas where they are manufactured:

“We produce in three different locations all over Japan - Kurume in Fukuoka prefecture, Takasago in Hyogo prefecture, Okayama, and Gyouda in Saitama. As every single one of these areas has a history in jikatabi making, they all developed a unique jikatabi style. So, they are all genuine articles of the places they were produced in,” adds Maki.

This local flavour and the special manufacturing skills inherited from one generation to the next are the prerequisites of the different SOU・SOU styles. For example, all hand-sewn jikatabi are from Gyouda, while all the glued ones resembling sneakers are from Takasago.


Glued jikatabi from Takasago - with traditional motifs.

Hand-sewn examples from Gyouda, Saitama prefecture.

Tradition

Remember, all of these shoes are made by hand in local workshops with tools that appear to be from another century! The same applies to the patterns: This rich variety of motifs and patterns on the jikatabi fabrics is deeply rooted in Japanese traditions…

Maki Hashimoto explains SOU・SOU’s design concept:
“There are many wonderful things that survived from times long passed. I think especially in Japan these bear an amazing sense of taste: Taking the essence of the traditional ideas and adding our own interpretation - that’s what we believe is tradition: connecting old and new.”

Shoe dynamics! Jikatabi as street wear, connecting old and new: model “DA-N-DA-N” in black and white. Courtesy of SOU・SOU.

The Patterns!

Take a look at the fabrics and you will notice these typical Japanese patterns, for example maple leaves, hiragana characters, crest-like emblems or portraits of kabuki actors deriving from Ukiyo-e which we recently explained a bit deeper in PingMag. The jikatabi colours, however, are fresh and trendy: Often, the patterns consist of one or two strong colours on white or black backgrounds. The patterns itself try to be simple and clear - very Japanese! Noteworthy are also the ‘buttons’ on the back of the jikatabi. These kinds of items are usually used to keep a kimono closed. With the Sou Sou shoes, they are another delicate and typical Japanese detail!


The ‘buttons’ as ornamentation on the shoe’s back. Courtesy of SOU・SOU.

Looks nice, eh! Again, hand-sewn jikatabi made in Gyouda, Saitama prefecture. Courtesy of SOU・SOU.

But SOU・SOU isn’t only about Japanese patterns: One of the foreign influences would be Arabian numbers that are a recurring constant in the company’s assortment. You will recognise these numbers instantly - they do indeed serve as highly supporting brand recognition.

OMG! That’s such a must-have! The Asian edition of Sou Sou and Le Coq Sportif. Courtesy of SOU・SOU.

A French-Japanese Relationship

SOU・SOU is naturally always trying to be on the fashion forefront. That’s why they agreed to collaborate with the chic French sports fashion producer Le Coq Sportif.

“Certainly we like to cooperate, but only if something original can be produced. Both of us agreed to create products with respect for each others history. The results are now sold in ten Asian countries!” says Hashimoto.

Damn! Another limited edition for Asia only!

High-heeled boots! SOU・SOU’s collaboration with Le Coq Sportif. Courtesy of SOU・SOU.

Another product of the SOU・SOU-Le Coq Sportif collabo. Courtesy of SOU・SOU.

From the product range - SOU・SOU are doing tenugui, cushions, shirts, etc. Courtesy of SOU・SOU.

Lastly, let’s get a bit practical: Since these shoes are simply fabric with rubber soles, how to deal with rain, especially in the soaking-wet tsuyu, Japanese rainy season?


SOU・SOU’s shop in Aoyama, Tokyo: It’s not all about split toes, every model goes in the usual sneaker shape as well!

“Well, with waterproof-spray they are as water resistant as any other sneakers made out of fabric. However, there is hardly any shoe to be found in the world that is completely waterproof and does not make your feet sweat…,” says Maki.

…and you surely wouldn’t walk with your stylish jikatabi in a snow storm. Thank you, Maki Hashimoto from SOU・SOU for giving Japanese tradition a cool twist!

Now, folks, we are sorry: Currently Sou Sou’s online shop is Japan-only. However, if you happen to come to Tokyo, be sure to visit their homey little store in Aoyama or the one in Odaiba!

Colourful tabi for your next matsuri festival!

58 Comments

  1. Thank you for your site. I have found here much useful information.
    Good site ! ;)

    Posted by: OVGuillermo on August 25th, 2007 at 2:06 am

  2. Does anybody know if these can be ordered online and sent to a UK address?

    Posted by: Laura on August 25th, 2007 at 3:51 am

  3. Gotta love those boots! And employed as workgear.. wow.

    Posted by: Julio on August 25th, 2007 at 3:52 am

  4. The sneakers look awesome !!!!
    very impressive design !!

    Posted by: Anonymous on August 25th, 2007 at 8:33 am

  5. i must have one!!

    Posted by: Anonymous on August 25th, 2007 at 8:41 am

  6. very cool.

    I have a friend who one tried to buy a pair of plain blue tabi in a backstreet shop in Kyoto.

    When he explained he wanted to wear them for hiking (good for scrambling) the shop owner said, “sorry I can’t sell these to you because you are not a ’shokunin’ (craftsman)”!

    Posted by: tony on August 25th, 2007 at 1:02 pm

  7. Looks pretty much like a heart-shape at the front.

    Posted by: NWT on August 25th, 2007 at 1:44 pm

  8. or you could just buy a pair of nike rifts

    Posted by: jay on August 25th, 2007 at 2:25 pm

  9. Got a pair from nike, but they called it a yoga shoe, but i wear all the time especially on my flights

    Posted by: Anonymous on August 25th, 2007 at 3:12 pm

  10. super cool!
    tradition+function+fashion

    Posted by: curious pig on August 25th, 2007 at 7:03 pm

  11. Beautiful colors! I want them!

    Posted by: zuza on August 25th, 2007 at 9:31 pm

  12. It seems this is one of the more popular article. Although most of the shoe designs are made from canvas, the price is quite reasonable for something handmade in japan. I will try ordering one via a forwarder in japan. There are agents that can help you purchase and send to overseas country but they come at a price. Hope this helps, Cheers!

    Posted by: Cyberpukish on August 26th, 2007 at 1:17 am

  13. Not only the form is cool. I quite like the pattern.
    Canvas shoes are always nice to wear. As it quite airy same time covered.

    Posted by: Paavani on August 26th, 2007 at 3:43 pm

  14. hooray for non-leather shoes!

    Posted by: mexist on August 26th, 2007 at 4:26 pm

  15. hi my name is melissa and i am stupid

    Posted by: melissa on August 27th, 2007 at 1:40 pm

  16. Does anybody know if these can be ordered online and sent to a US address?

    Posted by: gus on August 27th, 2007 at 1:40 pm

  17. I’m proud i got 2 pairs kekek (showing off)

    Posted by: Anonymous on August 27th, 2007 at 1:41 pm

  18. does anyone know any links for forwarding agents?

    Posted by: Anonymous on August 27th, 2007 at 2:40 pm

  19. Most ppl not living in Jpn on this site???

    Posted by: Anonymous on August 27th, 2007 at 3:03 pm

  20. [...] kinda want these crazy Japanese shoes. They’re called “jiktabi” and they’re split-toe canvas shoes with rubber soles that are favored by construction workers. Although [...]

    Posted by: Blendor » Jikatabi on August 27th, 2007 at 11:57 pm

  21. [...] PingMag - The Tokyo-based magazine about “Design and Making Things” » Archive » Sou Sou: Sneak… “Although jikatabi are almost always black, Kyoto-based company Sou Sou is enhancing these work boots with designer patterns, bringing this traditional footwear to a sneaker-loving crowd.” (tags: fashion japan costume history creativity) [...]

    Posted by: John G Bell’s Blog » links for 2007-08-28 on August 28th, 2007 at 6:25 pm

  22. ADOREI MUITO!
    Sou Brasileira e quero muito um desses.
    Como posso conseguir? vende em alguma loja aqui? como posso conseguir??? PRECISO MUIIIITO!

    Posted by: Camilinha on August 29th, 2007 at 2:13 am

  23. One might mention that the Nike models miserably failed - too special for westerners, I suppose.

    Posted by: Sanja on August 29th, 2007 at 10:05 pm

  24. Ciao the jikatabi boots are the one

    Posted by: Gianina on September 1st, 2007 at 9:49 pm

  25. Camilinha, se tu descobrir, posta por aqui como.
    Se esses gringos tão doidos pra conseguir e acham dificil, imagine nós brasileiros…

    Posted by: Zé on September 4th, 2007 at 12:56 am

  26. [...] in all kinds of styles. These are only available in Japan at the moment but check them out here:  http://pingmag.jp/2007/08/24/sou-sou-fashionable-jikatabi/ Posted in Parent Stuff, Shiny new things RSS 2.0 | Trackback | [...]

    Posted by: Sou-Sou Jikatabi sneakers | PengiWear on September 5th, 2007 at 12:45 am

  27. Rats, I really wanted to get this pair (http://images.pingmag.jp/images/article/sou17.jpg) but it’s not on the Sou-Sou site anywhere anymore (?).

    Really super awesome shoes, though… Apparently Waraku USA is going to be stocking them soon. (http://www.warakuusa.com/)

    Posted by: Nickelpin on September 5th, 2007 at 2:46 pm

  28. [...] PingMag Scritto da Simone il 5 Settembre, 2007Tags: accessori, giappone, scarpe, [...]

    Posted by: Scarpe tradizionali giapponesi stile sneakers – Frizzifrizzi.it on September 5th, 2007 at 7:01 pm

  29. it cut the circulation to my big toe off

    Posted by: Anonymous on September 13th, 2007 at 1:15 pm

  30. ho no!!! i want one of sou.sou shoe but where can i buy it? please help!

    Posted by: toffifart on September 13th, 2007 at 6:31 pm

  31. Hi, are there any fashion tradeshows in Japan? Like streetwear.

    Posted by: Anonymous on September 14th, 2007 at 1:11 pm

  32. does anyone have the address of the kyoto store?

    Posted by: michael on October 22nd, 2007 at 3:47 pm

  33. the Aoyama shop is pretty interesting. helpful staff.

    Posted by: Lazarus Walks on October 27th, 2007 at 8:59 pm

  34. ‘Jikatabi’ will definitely turn heads. It’s one of the trends that you can tell at an instant is Japanese =)

    Posted by: nwl on November 7th, 2007 at 10:34 pm

  35. I know the website you can get.
    http://www.warakuusa.com
    They carry a lot of “sou sou”.

    Posted by: ken on December 20th, 2007 at 10:34 am

  36. Does Sou Sou create shoes for a designer?

    Posted by: Natalie on January 19th, 2008 at 5:29 am

  37. http://www.asie-shop.com/ , they ship almost worlwide Sou.Sou Tabi and others, even the special series with ” Le Coq Sportif”

    Posted by: JediR on February 27th, 2008 at 3:01 pm

  38. Try maruione.jp, they have a lot of Sou Sou’s and cost the same as if you buy it from Japan.

    Posted by: Anonymous on May 16th, 2008 at 7:22 pm

  39. i’m already brought two pairs ,hehe…
    Wonderful and comfortable !
    i like very much!! :)

    Posted by: Angela on May 29th, 2008 at 3:44 pm

  40. we just discovered this shop in tokyo, and were getting sooooo happy by these beautiful shoes, and bought four pairs.

    Posted by: froukje on June 22nd, 2008 at 1:40 am

  41. tabi shoes are so kakkoiiiiiiii (^_-) hihihi

    Posted by: 7E55E on June 26th, 2008 at 10:17 pm

  42. I’m going to keep an eye out for these babies when I’m in Japan. Such…fashion awesomeness…can’t look away..

    Posted by: Anonymous on July 4th, 2008 at 5:00 pm

  43. they sell these shoes at Disney World in Orlando — in specific, Epcot Center World Showcase, Japan

    Posted by: bob on August 13th, 2008 at 2:18 pm

  44. I don´t understand why people find these kind of shoes wonderful! In my opinion they are horrible!
    What a bad taste!

    Posted by: Maria on August 26th, 2008 at 12:01 am

  45. [...] land of the Rising Sun. OH, btw, they are called Jikatabi and here is where I found the info - PingMAG Here are the sites that have some if ya like the designs and the size fits [...]

    Posted by: Jika-what? Jikatabi took over my mind. at Braking eyes since 2012 on November 9th, 2008 at 8:13 am

  46. THANKS VERY GOOD YOUR SİTE

    Posted by: Bursa Evden Eve Nakliyat on May 25th, 2009 at 10:03 pm

  47. Note: There’s now a pop-up Sou-Sou store on the 2nd floor of the new Japantown center in San Francisco. They carry most of the shoe designs there.

    Posted by: mexist on September 13th, 2009 at 3:06 pm

  48. Hi, I am the manager of Sou-Sou store in San Francisco.
    We still haven’t opened the webstore yet, but we take orders through phone or e-mail.
    If you are interested, please e mail us at
    sousou@newpeopleworld.com

    I’m glad to read so many positive comments!

    Posted by: chinatsu on October 24th, 2009 at 4:36 am

  49. Good,I Love Him

    Posted by: Rift Nike on July 20th, 2010 at 12:19 pm

  50. Amazing happens here！You will love it!

    Posted by: Nike Rifts on August 3rd, 2010 at 9:09 pm

  51. http://www.edhardytrend.com
    Amazing happens here！You will love it!

    Posted by: Nike Rifts on August 3rd, 2010 at 9:10 pm

  52. I like sou sou, check my streetwear from Amsterdam..

    http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=137798792910680&ref=ts

    Posted by: Tomas on September 8th, 2010 at 12:40 am

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