Tsukikageya: Do the Punk Yukata!

30 Jul 2007 Category: Fashion, Features, Japan

Tsukikageya: Do the Punk Yukata!

That rocks! Try the leopard print yukata with a matching kiss mark obi in 80's rock style for traditional Japanese summer garb. Here worn by the designer, Natsuki Shigeta, herself. Photo © Tsukikageya

August is nearly upon us, meaning: It’s fireworks season in Japan! And watching these hanabi undoubtedly requires a matching traditional apparel - which would be a yukata, of course! This thin unisex cotton kimono comes with beautiful Japanese patterns. That’s lovely, unless you’d be the only person wearing exactly this flower pattern… So, why don’t you do it wild style this year and go with a modernised Punk yukata from Tokyo-based fashion brand Tsukikageya? Do it in lips, diamonds, or leopard patterns! PingMag got hold of Tsukikageya designer Natsuki Shigeta for a rocking hanabi attire in her Tomigaya studio.

Written by Kevin Mcgue


A cool dude - even cooler in a yukata with a pine branch motif! © Tsukikageya

This is a bit more traditional - and looks awesome on boys! © Tsukikageya

Thick horizontal stripes give a strong impression to the manly type. © Tsukikageya

With this yukata you’ll be the epitome of cool… © Tsukikageya

Now, the usual procedure for hanabi would be: You are supposed to meet your date at the river bank to watch the fireworks. You arrive hours early to find a place to sit, and if you are lucky you can secure just enough space for the two of you to squeeze into. But you have to make sure your apparel will have a lasting impression on your date. This special circumstance requires a special yukata. Tsukikageya’s Natsuki Shigeta might have them for girls - and especially for boys:

Lips, diamonds, chains… your yukata patterns are wonderfully original! Where do you get your inspiration?

Every year I basically think what I would like to have for myself. This year, I really wanted to wear a leopard print yukata and thought more about what would fit that style: It reminded me of rock, 80’s style, and I expanded on that with the kiss mark theme.

An undulating yukata with tough motifs: talking mouths, diamonds and high heels, chains! All produced with traditional methods.

Traditional yukata designs often include floral themes for ladies and pinstripes or checked designs for men. You found them too boring?

Well, I just don’t think in terms of tradition or not at all. But actually, the method of making my yukata is fully traditional: The blocks for printing the fabric are carved by craftsmen who have been in the business for a very long time. The results of this very traditional process are simply the best.


One more boy delicately covered in kiss marks… © Tsukikageya

Oh la la! © Tsukikageya

OMG! And we thought the 80s revival is over by now - this decade’s kitsch gets updated with a snakeskin and rhinestone obi.

You also design obi, the wide belts that are worn with yukata and kimono. When designing, do you think more about its function or the obi being an accessory?

Both, as I have to think about but the function and the look. I use a lot of Thai silk and fabric that is made in Japan for kimono use. These materials are expensive, but the obi made with them are easy to tie. And, of course, silk looks much better than polyester!

Elegant! Leather and, ah well, a real snakeskin obi… © Tsukikageya

You also make obi from leather and real snakeskin! We won’t go into that real issue, for now, though we clearly not approve of it… These obi look terribly heavy - but one of your models told me they are surprisingly light. How come?

Snakeskin is actually very light. Leather can be quite stiff, but I only use it on the areas you can see when the obi is worn. The backing is from fabric made for use in kimono. That is why it is so easy to tie, light and comfortable.


Yukata design inspired by the ornate hairstyles that appear in Shojo Manga.

You told me before that the making of your yukata takes quite long. As each piece is handcrafted in every detail?

Obviously the designs are very important - but the tailoring is really something and I care about fine, high-quality sewing very much. And I do almost everything myself. For example, these obi have kiss marks made from rhinestones and I sewed each of these on by hand. That is why I can’t produce large quantities and usually make only about 10 obi from each design. However, some of them are so complex, I only make one unique print.

I heard that Japanese traditions, such as wearing a kimono, are having a revival in the recent decade. What’s your opinion?

Six or seven years ago it wasn’t so popular to wear kimono and yukata at all. However, now you can find everything from hip to boring yukata designs, be it expensive or cheap. And I don’t think there is a danger of them disappearing. But the traditional handcrafts are vanishing: When I do my print designs, I draw them on paper and give this to a craftsman who prepares a printing screen by hand. Similar to silkscreening, he applies a masking adhesive to the fabric with this screen. The areas with the applied adhesive are not dyed after it has been washed out. Moreover, some of my designs are quite detailed.


It took a skilled craftsman around one week to finish this intricate printing screen…

… and sadly, the traditional techniques for making printing screens like this maybe be disappearing.

Pictures of Tokyo’s flashy Ginza district, printed on an obi. Eye catcher! © Tsukikageya

For example, I have one that was inspired by the way hairstyles are drawn in The Rose of Versailles Manga. It was carved by a craftsman who has been in the trade for decades. But veterans like these will be retiring soon, and I am worried if the younger workers will improve their skills enough by that time. And even more than worrying about something traditional being lost, I am worried that I won’t be able to produce all of my designs anymore. When the craftsmen who posses these techniques are no longer around, designers will lose a lot of their freedom.

A bit of a sad way to end this with thinking about dying traditions… However, many thanks to Natsuki Shigeta from Tsukikageya for showing us her wild yukata designs!

Pretty in pink: A Punk yukata has to go with proper accessories!

28 Comments

  1. Oh-my…Mecha kakoii! I wish it was okay for a strait man to wear a Kimono stateside.!!!

    Posted by: eppbot on July 30th, 2007 at 7:55 pm

  2. gorgeous

    Posted by: Anonymous on July 30th, 2007 at 8:06 pm

  3. I love the clash of modern and ancient cultures in things like this. It can be very effective when done well, like these Yukata. The minimal patterns really look good along with the random splashes of colour.

    Posted by: Stewy on July 30th, 2007 at 9:40 pm

  4. [...] http://pingmag.jp/2007/07/30/punk-yukata/ [...]

    Posted by: Tokyo Street Report» Blog Archive » Cool Yukata on July 30th, 2007 at 10:49 pm

  5. So cool! I want one set!

    Posted by: vaneea on July 30th, 2007 at 11:09 pm

  6. WOW! These are amazing! Hip, modern and fresh but still maintaining a level of traditional beauty. I absolutely love them and wish there were more photos of the women’s ones!

    Posted by: sachi_808 on July 31st, 2007 at 2:59 am

  7. It is as okay to wear one of these in the USA as it is to wear a Utilikilt, which I believe is perfectly okay, especially if you look at it as Robert Heinlein did. A kilt is a wonderful way to carry concealed weapons.

    Posted by: Tudza on July 31st, 2007 at 10:24 am

  8. this is way cool!! Now thats fusion of traditional and modern element!

    I wish to have one of those thou..

    Posted by: jayhan on July 31st, 2007 at 6:12 pm

  9. [...] PingMag - The Tokyo-based magazine about “Design and Making Things” » Archive » Tsukikageya: D… on the theme of Japanese craftsmanship: traditionally printed yukatas (informal lightweight summer kimonos) in modern designs. (tags: yukata printing fashion design Japan) [...]

    Posted by: Heraclitean Fire – Links on July 31st, 2007 at 6:23 pm

  10. Very cool outfits!

    Posted by: Maria E. on August 1st, 2007 at 5:02 pm

  11. “a kilt is an excellent way to conceal weapons”

    Yeah, for me that is a problem. My weapon’s too big, so if I wear a kilt people can see it, and so I get arrested.

    Posted by: JB on August 3rd, 2007 at 2:03 am

  12. [...] only after I’ve seen the punk Yukatas I’ve realised that my yukata’s patern is too [...]

    Posted by: felipov / future is now » Tradition reloaded/punk yukata on August 3rd, 2007 at 9:10 pm

  13. [...] mi dicono che gli stranieri in yukata sono molto cool). L’ispirazione mi è venuta leggendo quest’articolo su Ping Mag e questo post su Itadakimasu. Ecco, il punk-yukata! Ci vedo una botta pesante di [...]

    Posted by: comme un garçon » Yukata on August 5th, 2007 at 5:19 pm

  14. i was wondering how i could buy one of these amazeing yukatas

    Posted by: xavier pagan on August 11th, 2007 at 5:58 am

  15. Xavier: visit their site (link at the top of the article), find Natsuki’s email address and email her. She’s lovely–I ordered one of their incredible bracelets.

    Posted by: Thom on August 22nd, 2007 at 12:21 pm

  16. Truly amazing. Love the patterns. The craftsmanship of the screen makers is impressive. Beautiful.

    E XO

    Posted by: Erlina on October 31st, 2007 at 8:21 pm

  17. A fusion of old fashion with new street style tastes! Nice!~

    Posted by: Anonymous on July 4th, 2008 at 5:39 pm

  18. [...] Yukata and jimbe [...]

    Posted by: What’s to Love About Summer in Tokyo? « Sushi Zume Tokyo on July 24th, 2008 at 10:56 pm

  19. 0000000

    Posted by: Anonymous on November 4th, 2008 at 9:18 pm

  20. [...] truly is the source of much greatness for us and the rest of it’s wide readership. The article written by Kevin Mcgue about Tsukikageya’s fashion yukata is one of my all time favs. Punk Yukata anyone? Yes [...]

    Posted by: Sharing the Love « TokyoMade blog on November 16th, 2008 at 2:36 am

  21. [...] Kimono fashion goes punk: [...]

    Posted by: Sociological Images » GLOBALIZING THE KIMONO on December 5th, 2008 at 4:00 pm

  22. [...] That rocks! Try the leopard print yukata with a matching kiss mark obi in 80’s rock style for traditional Japanese summer garb. Here worn by the designer, Natsuki Shigeta, herself. Photo Tsukikageya From PingMag [...]

    Posted by: Do the Punk Yukata | Cool Design Concept + Ideas on December 21st, 2008 at 1:45 pm

  23. [...] 太帅了！尝试豹纹图案的日本和服和嘴唇图案的腰带相搭配，在充满日本传统的风俗中又融入了绝对80年代朋克的特点，为夏日焰火节的日本装束带来前所未有的时尚潮流。这是设计师Natsuki Shigeta本人身穿此款和服。消息来源：PingMag [...]

    Posted by: 朋克风格日本和服 | 创意设计 on December 21st, 2008 at 3:06 pm

  24. [...] English Text [...]

    Posted by: Kevin Mcgue - Tokyo Based Journalist & Filmmaker » Tsukikageya: Do the Punk Yukata! on January 27th, 2009 at 4:04 pm

  25. is there a english site to buy these?

    I’d love to get one!

    Posted by: Spazz on February 25th, 2009 at 8:52 am

  26. [...] 太帅了！尝试豹纹图案的日本和服和嘴唇图案的腰带相搭配，在充满日本传统的风俗中又融入了绝对80年代朋克的特点，为夏日焰火节的日本装束带来前所未有的时尚潮流。这是设计师Natsuki Shigeta本人身穿此款和服。消息来源：PingMag [...]

    Posted by: 创意猎人（ideahunter.cn） » 朋克风格日本和服 on May 12th, 2009 at 11:31 pm

  27. i don’t know the Punk’s meaning,but i think i like this Yukata,especially I have seen one in the TV play,the Yukata with pink is very beautiful,if i can go to the Japan,i want to have a try on Yukata.

    Posted by: Replica Designer Handbags on July 9th, 2009 at 2:16 pm

  28. [...] Vaata lisaks: http://pingmag.jp/2007/07/30/punk-yukata/ [...]

    Posted by: NOVEMBER 2009 : ARTER « MARIA VIIDALEPP : MOEST & MÕNDA on November 4th, 2009 at 7:32 am

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