Lifestyle and fashion from the townships in South Africa

26 Mar 2007 Category: Conscientious Design, Fashion, Features

Lifestyle and fashion from the townships in South Africa

Cape Town's townships burst with creativity. They are the meeting-place for traditional African culture and global youth cultures. Styles in fashion, dance and music are seen as a way out of poverty. Tomorrow's global subcultures are born in the big cities of the Third world. Here Nosie, the woman with the shaven head stands out of the crowd and preens.

The Beautiful Struggle is more than a 143 pages heavy book of lifestyle and fashion photography introduced to you from some of the poorest areas of Cape Town, South Africa. This vital collection of images is a statement, a reason to visit Cape Town’s townships (or Shanty towns) and experience their true spirit of sharing, life and their incredibly positive energy to move towards a brighter future. Here is an interview with fashion and documentary photographer Per Englund from Sweden and township visionary Mlamli Figlan from Guguletu about their special friendship and collaboration: how they introduce fashion and lifestyle from these areas to the outside world, make the townships more accessible for everyone and re-establish pride and hope by spreading some good news from the townships!

Written by Uleshka


Sharp-point shoes, tight jeans, stylish hair and perfect make up - like in the magazines.

Typical interior of a shack. Many set music as a priority, just as with fashion.

The majority of people here have moved in from the Eastern Cape, searching for work in Cape Town. View over Site C, Khayelitsha in 2005.

Your book captures everything from the latest fashion style to traditional Xhosa culture costumes, views into people’s houses and on public spaces, music, food, favorite pets and the overall unique style of the townships. How did the two of you actually meet and how did this project start?

Per: I first came to South Africa in 2002, assisting a Swedish fashion photographer. At that time I didn’t know much about the country. The first thing I saw from the taxi from the airport was the townships, endless landscapes of tin shacks where the majority of the people of Cape Town live. It was a grim picture in a country with harsh contrasts. I felt I needed to get inside, but I didn’t want to go on an organised township tour.

I met Mlamli Figlan, who was working in one of the hotels where we were staying. We were the same age and he was living in the township of Guguletu. At that time he carried my bags and poured my drinks, a very uncomfortable feeling being white, Swedish, and having the memory of apartheid fresh in mind. I showed him my interest for life on the other side and he started to school me in township life and style - secretly.

A year later I quit my job to go back to Cape Town with the idea of finding Mlamli to start to photograph life in the townships. Without his phone number or help from the hotel where he previously worked I was lucky enough to bump into him in the street. He took me to Guguletu and that was the start of our long journey together.

Mlamli: The initial idea for this project was due to Per’s interest. He wanted to catch and show more of the life in the townships to other people, make people come down to Cape Town and see for themselves.

To make a little money, the girls have organized a car wash party. For thirty ZAR (about 3 Euro), they polish the car to a heavy Kwaito beat until it is gleaming.

What is actually happening in the townships then? What is the special vibe about it?

Mlamli: The townships are about sharing and happiness. Although people live in poverty there, they are still able to smile and share the little they have with others and carry on that way. That is the vibe in the townships paired with culture and custom.

Once you are leave your house, you no longer carry your problems in front of you. You might meet someone else struggeling even more than you do, which is why you say something positive to the person you meet. Instead of grieving and complaining about your own life - you share! That is what I love about the townships.

Townships are also about fashion and music. They always have been.


Outside a cell-shack. Here customers can make phone calls or buy airtime.

The hip-hop group Driemanskaap in Dre’s studio.

Why do you think that fashion and style are so important in the townships?

Mlamli: Fashion in black culture is something that has been there for a very long time. Even generations ago when people were scarcely dressed, they would still compare their skin (who has the most beautiful, smoothest, silkiest skin?) or they would compare their spears (whose spear shines the most?). Maybe that is not ‘fashion’ but ’style’ that has always been there.

Fashion now means wearing different brands and a unique way of putting things together. An expensive shirt or new shoes make you believe that you actually made it, that you are free and it makes you feel a little different to what you have to face everyday, what the reality might be.

I think this might be hard for people outside to understand, but fashion can be really motivational and is sometimes more important than food. We all have problems, but you cannot face them all at once. This way it is like putting your problem in your pocket, keeping it there and not carrying it outside. You know it is there, you deal with it in your way and move on gradually - with a little more hope, comfort and motivation.

Well-practised choreography by two pantsula dancers during a show at JL Zwane’s, Guguletu.

You were both working on that book within the period of over 4 years: taking photos, conducting countless interviews, … What would you say is your final result about then?

Mlamli: It’s about life style, fashion, black culture. The happy moments, having a good time in the town ships.

Per: And music! You can clearly see the influence of Kwaito. You’ve got the street fashion, there is street bashes with sound systems, open mic sessions and the awesome pantsula-dance battles! … although the Kwaito scene is much bigger in Johannesburg. Kwaito music is for South African ghetto youths what hip hop was in the early days in New York.

What about the title of your book: The Beautiful Struggle?

Per: The book is about a unique style that reigns in the townships. It is a beautiful expression. There may be equal rights in theory in the new South Africa, but people still have to struggle.

Mlamli: Financially it’s a struggle and socially, too but since chances and options are there, it’s a beautiful struggle. The struggle won’t change overnight, but you will find more hope in South African than anywhere else in the world.

A DJ plays the latest house and kwaito beats at Mzoli’s, where there is no age limit.

Mororo and Bongi at Mzoli’s. Mororo dreams of becoming a model one day.

Lucky displays a pale tattoo depicting a tiger.

How did the original idea for the book change to its final result?

Per: The original idea was to compare the townships with the city. To show how the one wouldn’t exist without the other. It’s a symbiotic relationship between the two. If it wasn’t for the workers living in the townships, commuting to town every day, city people would never be able to enjoy the benefits of their “good life”.

I started out photographing in only black and white and in a whole lot more poetic, dark and traditional way. After a while we came to realise that this story was not about contrast but about colour. The Beautiful Struggle is story about the good vibe, the creativity and the unique style that you only find in the townships.

The price tag is proof that the sunglasses are brand new. Yes, he does wear them just like that.

Were there any particular difficulties while making the book?

Per: Well, I haven’t had any real difficulties that I can think of. The reason I feel that way is because Mlamli has been solving all problems and made the work possible. (The literal meaning of his name is problem solver) He talked to everyone involved in the book - there’s the language barrier, since the mother tongue of most residents is Xhosa. English takes you far, but not all the way where you want to go. The fact that it’s Mlamli’s and my book, that we’re 50/50 on this, makes it a product of the townships, and that also helps a lot.

Prima ballerinas to be trained at the ‘Dance For All’ dance company, Guguletu.

Many photographers collaborate with barbers, since people like to have their portrait taken when they have had their hair cut. Also interesting to see the priorities - work in a shack but driving a BMW. Site C, Khayelitsha.

What was your overall goal with this book?

Mlamli: In addition to opening up, making the townships accessible for everyone and showing others what life is like over there, the most important thing that I wanted, was to tell a good, real story about my people.

I had to make sure that which ever person from the townships who would pick up my book had to feel, that this book really represents them.


Pool table with glass marbles, Guguletu.

Dogs are the most comon pets, though they are not allowed inside the houses. Tortoises are much rarer. Joe Slovo, Langa.

Welcome to South Africa. Duck Motherfucker. Guguletu

How did the people react to you wanting to take photos then?

Per: Most people welcomed us with open arms and were more than willing to let us into their homes to share their stories.

At first, some were a little suspicious, they thought I wasn’t going to bring back any photos, due to previously broken promises from tourists visiting the townships. That has in fact been very important to us. To do our best to bring back photos to those who ask. It’s a matter of trust, a matter of respect and since we haven’t had any budget or financial backing that’s been the only thing we’ve been able to give back, in terms of material things.


Linda at Mzoli’s

How do people who are in the book react to it now?

Mlamli: It’s shocking! People love it, they really really love it! It means a lot to them. And they can relate to it. For the people in the townships, this is their life. Now there is an opportunity for their story to be told in a positive manner.

For the people in town or outside South Africa, they are also keen to learn about this other side, I think. Most of them are not even aware that these things are happening in the townships…

Most people only see the shacks from the highway, and all they see is poverty. That is such a shame.

Life is difficult here, even today, but the ones who actually come to see are so shocked to experience the life in the townships, because there is so much there.

Per: You see, the whole idea with the book is to bring people together. To bridge the gap between the city and the townships. This was definitely a step in the right direction.

Pantsula dancer setting up for the opening at Mzoli’s

You’ve had various exhibitions about the book now, one is currently touring Europe, you books can be bought in fashion boutiques, galleries and book shops nicely spread across the globe… But tell us a little about your first book launch party which was at no other venue but Mzoli’s Meat - the place to be in Guguletu.

Per: It was natural for us to do the book-launch not in town, but in the township. At Mzoli’s Place. Any other venue would have felt wrong!

crowds coming to eat, drink and celebrate ‘The Beautiful Struggle’ at Mzoli’s in Guguletu

car-crowd outside Mzoli’s

Per: We created a hype around it and invited a lot of people from different areas to join us on this unique day. It was a real success! City people mingling with township dwellers in a true and relaxed way!

We exhibited huge prints on the outside wall of Mzoli’s Place. Portraits of people photographed against that very same brick wall throughout the years. We had Mzoli’s meat (enough for everyone to get full..), live hip hop and kwaito. Pantsula dancers and a big soundsystem.


Linda in front of her own picture from the book, wearing the same sun-glasses, ear-rings and bra.

Nosie holding her own image in the book at Mzoli’s - with other big book prints in the background.

Mlamli: This opening was beyond what we expected, we were so happy. The book was a medium to invite people. We just gave them a reason to come to Guguletu, to be there, socialize and communicate. There were more than 1500 people at the opening and I am pretty sure that this was the first book ever to be launched like that in a township.


Happy supporters enjoying the book.

Celebrating the book launch in Guguletu.

Would you go as far as to say that this book has changed people or life in the townships?

Mlamli: I think it has changed Guguletu a little bit. People see the book on TV and in news papers, they can see that there is in another exhibition coming up in another fashionable setting. They can see, that this is about their+ life and something *they know and that other people are interested to hear about it.

It is finally some good news coming from the townships rather than hearing that another person has been killed or raped again. This is something they can be proud of again, so in that sense I can see that it has already changed a little.

The Beautiful Struggle - supporters

The Beautiful Struggle - exhibition at a gallery in Gothenburg

What about yourself? Would you say that making this book has changed your life?

Per: Yes! Totally!

Mlamli: Definitely. I have totally changed. I already thought I knew about my people but it made me get even closer to them, asking more questions, and it made me to actually love people.

At the same time, I had to learn about the other side of the world and how to behave around white people. I do understand now why they don’t go to the townships. It makes sense if they feel scared and they really don’t have a reason to go, if all they hear are negative things from the townships.

That makes me even more of an ambassador wanting to spread the good news and find ways to communicate what it is actually like, tell them what they have been missing out all their lives.

The Beautiful Struggle - at the Press Stop book shop in Stockholm.

From a fashion shop in Copenhagen.

Now that you have found publishers for the book - what do you do with it?

Per: At the moment there is an photography exhibition touring Europe and the book is distributed world wide. Except from your classic book shops we’ve been targeting the up-market life style shops and magazines - and that has been a great success! We have a very broad audience for The Beautiful Struggle. Everyone from your school teachers to your fashion editors.

Mlamli: Also we were just given a grant and so now all the libraries in Sweden are going to have that book available. Since we couldn’t get South African publishers and went to Sweden instead, the book is too expensive for people in the townships to buy. I wish I could change that. Generally, we need to tell more of a story about it and we can do that through exhibitions. I want to be able to reach my people and the people outside the townships.

Dre’s studio, a music producer in Guguletu.

What about your future plans? Anything else planned along the lines of The Beautiful Struggle?

Per: We are now working on doing a compilation CD with the music from the townships. If you look at the book, there is so much dance and movement, you wander what they hear? So we will add some sound.

Mlamli: I think big about this whole thing and my long term plan is to change the townships and make them accessible for everybody. If you want a drink, going to the townships for an evening must be another option to the usual places in town. I want to create this access to the townships to share this life and culture with everyone.

Reaching that goal, the book was a perfect start, currently I do customized township tours as well and I just finished managing a documentary about the townships for three other Swedish ladies who came over to Cape Town inspired by our book. I started planning a communication centre, some sort of township-visitors-hub for the World Cup in South Africa in 2010 (restaurant, guest house, meeting place for those who can’t go to the stadium), but which functions as a lasting community centre and homes for people in the townships after the games.

Eager to be photographed, the children of Ekasie in New Cross, Guguletu.

From the township side, I have just started using the book when giving motivational speeches visiting schools or at other meetings telling people that if they dream of something, they can do it. Just like me becoming a black author from the townships at the age of 24. Making them realize that they can also do whatever they want to do in life - and this book is proof of that!

Per Englund and Mlamli Figlan.

Thank you so much, Per and Mlamli! For any more information of what is coming up you can contact Mlamli here.

82 Comments

  1. Awesome article! Really interesting to hear about what goes on in the townships. I wonder if the people in South Africa know about how they live?

    Posted by: The Augustus on March 26th, 2007 at 9:17 pm

  2. I would love to see all of you at Pingmag thanks for opennning you hands for us this is the best story have been writen about us.thanks for it from my people in South Africa
    mlamli figlan

    Posted by: mlamli figlan on March 26th, 2007 at 9:25 pm

  3. Very beautiful article, very beautiful book, very beautiful people very beautiful lifestyle. Never imagined beeing interested in a book about South Africa.

    On a side note - its kind of a positive anarchy they are living in - something that each and every western politician, banker, moneymaker in the capitalistic world says it don´t work. (its still a capitalistic anarchy so with their fixation on BMW and all ;) I imagine there is still crime and all (something the article isn´t talking about much) but generally I do believe if people with a common goal live in the same environment they will make the best out of it together - its human nature. This starkly contrasts with modern day western society where everyone will try to be as individual and as far away from everyone else as possible. I would even venture to guess that most of these people living there are more happy then 90% of westerners who have (posses) an iPod.

    Posted by: fALk on March 26th, 2007 at 9:55 pm

  4. Great article! Great photos!

    Posted by: aeiou on March 27th, 2007 at 2:35 am

  5. I am looking for persons to network with that I may get fasnions for there and I will be able to send you any items from the US. I also have outfits designs I need to have made if you know of any one that have a reasonable price please email me.

    Posted by: terry simmons on March 27th, 2007 at 6:06 am

  6. do people have to mention crime when they talk about america? i dont think so. so why should south africa be the exception they are reprehensible things that happen in every country.also why do people like to know about the townships only? the trailors of america dont interest me. i think these pictures would had better if they had focused on the emerging black middle class.

    Posted by: Pamela on March 27th, 2007 at 6:07 am

  7. [...] http://pingmag.jp/2007/03/26/lifestyle-and-fashion/ [...]

    Posted by: ideometric » Blog Archive » ‘The Beautiful Struggle’ on March 27th, 2007 at 8:22 am

  8. very interesting! GOod Job! Well done!

    Posted by: Totoro on March 28th, 2007 at 12:30 am

  9. [...] Photographer Per Englund captures the struggles and more importantly, the hopes that can be found in these townships. Pingmag scored an interview with the Swedish born photographer and township visionary Mlamli Figlan from Guguletu. Check out what they have to say and see some of the amazing images here. [...]

    Posted by: Complex » Blog Archive » Stylin’ In South Africa on March 28th, 2007 at 3:13 am

  10. This is fantastic. I can’t wait to hear the accompanying CD. Good work Ping, Per, and Mlamli.

    Posted by: Scott on March 28th, 2007 at 4:29 am

  11. Terry Simmons, I might be able to help you. Please mail me at blacksoutheaster@gmail.com

    Posted by: John Freeman on March 28th, 2007 at 3:17 pm

  12. Pretty cool stuff.

    Posted by: HDR Photography on March 28th, 2007 at 6:44 pm

  13. I love how photo journalistic these images look.

    Posted by: HDR Photography on April 1st, 2007 at 11:25 am

  14. I think that what ur doing is tight!

    Posted by: Amish on April 2nd, 2007 at 9:27 pm

  15. The pictures of the children are absolutely adorable.

    Posted by: Laynie on April 3rd, 2007 at 12:07 am

  16. Amazing thats all have to say. And thats only 1 of the townships, its not even the most vibrant 1 in the country. But heck i grew up in a township similar to this, and the pictures an the book capture some of the moments quiet accuratly!!

    Bravo hey i wonder if i can meet these guys, damn what i am doing with my life!

    Posted by: luv it to pieces on April 7th, 2007 at 9:25 pm

  17. hey! if you want to meet the people behind the book in cape town, contact Mlamli Figlan here: mlamli@loxion-m.com good luck!

    Posted by: Uleshka on April 9th, 2007 at 11:52 am

  18. PING, AS A MEMBER OF ROCK STEADY AND TATS CRU@ THE TOURING TO ASIA WAS ONE IF NOT THE BEST ARTISTIC EXPERIENCE ALONG WITH THE WOMEN. I WOULD LOVE TO VENTURE INTO AFRICA JUST FOR THE BEAUTY AND PAINT THE LADIES ON THE WALL.

    Posted by: DANS on April 10th, 2007 at 12:29 am

  19. [...] Thursday, May 17th, 2007 in space/place, urban, fashion, art full article (at) pingmag.jp [...]

    Posted by: Lifestyle and fashion from the townships in South Africa « dérive on May 17th, 2007 at 2:25 pm

  20. Very interesting! Thanks a lot! I am very impressed of the work!

    Posted by: Hannes on May 17th, 2007 at 3:30 pm

  21. [...] Netzfundstück: The Beautiful Struggle [...]

    Posted by: JOKA-Notizen » Blog Archive » outfit im township on May 17th, 2007 at 4:05 pm

  22. [...] Related links // Beautiful Struggle – Ping Mag Article [...]

    Posted by: nownow // words » Blog Archive » point of view // per englund (sweden) on June 5th, 2007 at 3:02 pm

  23. Really interesting to hear about what goes on in the South Africa. I didnt know anything before.
    thanks a lot.

    Posted by: John Sender on September 1st, 2007 at 7:52 am

  24. cats: this is beautiful stuff. i was ridiculously excited when i came across this page, very refreshing images indeed.i am sooo tired of having ‘the streets’ in South Africa being depicted in a lot of mainstream media as a place of nothing more than disease, danger and poverty!!!like what?!i’m currently working on a magazine project for an intensive course that I’m doing in communication design here at Rhodes in grahamstown.my magazine is on street culture, where I will have a focus on all things ‘street’ – that is to say, the fashion, food, music, art: the works.am soo tired of peeps fronting about where they got their fab earings (while back at the ranch, sistaz knows that she got them off the street for 10 rand or something). I just want people to be proud of their surroundings, cuz its where they r at, uyazi? This is beautiful guys.nice one!

    Posted by: Tando on October 4th, 2007 at 8:05 pm

  25. that is so awesome and the little boy doing the peace sign at the end is adorable!!

    Posted by: alynomonous on October 7th, 2007 at 12:39 pm

  26. hi guys: would like to get in touch with you - can’t seem to find an email address (for you guys nor for pingpong mag).am working on a street culture publication for an intensive course i’m taking as part of the requirements towards the completion of a degree in journalism at Rhodes University.pls email me at :tandontunja@gmail.com (i know it should really be the other way round, but hey - there’s no email address)

    Posted by: tando(again) on October 12th, 2007 at 7:26 am

  27. township life….

    fun is what its all about, if you havent been to the townships, then you havent experienced life!!!!!!

    anyone looking for a pal to show them around, feel free to ast me????

    Posted by: thembi on October 16th, 2007 at 6:59 pm

  28. [...] Pingmag interview with Per Englund and Mlamli Figlan. This was written by Chief Goodness. Posted on Saturday, October 27, 2007, at 3:00 pm. Filed under Photography, Culture, Africa, Fashion, Inspiration. Bookmark the permalink. Follow comments here with the RSS feed. Post a comment or leave a trackback. [...]

    Posted by: Chief Goodness › Bookmark it! on October 28th, 2007 at 7:00 am

  29. GUYS THIS IS AWESOME BOOK, I GREW UP IN THE TOWNSHIP BUT HAVE MOVED OUT .I’m NOT USUALLY OPEN TO ART DEPICTING TOWNSHIP LIFE AS i FEEL THAT THEY TAKE AWAY AND FEED STUPID STEREOTYPES, I LOVE THE BOOK’S APproach , its BEAUTIFUL AND SO TRENDY ,WOULD MAKE acool coffe table mag, keep up the good work

    Posted by: dawn on November 5th, 2007 at 7:33 pm

  30. [...] Sources: PingMag article [...]

    Posted by: ideometric » Blog Archive » The “Beautiful Struggle” on December 24th, 2007 at 5:19 pm

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