Hardcore fashion from Hamansutra

11 Oct 2005 Category: Fashion, Features, Products, Recommended, Top Page 10, Worldwide

Hardcore fashion from Hamansutra

Hamansutra - alias Haman Alimardani - says of all the ways people label what he does, he likes the term “clothes maker” best. The Teheran-born Afro-Persian from Bavaria started off with Graffiti in Munich, worked for Advertising Agency Jung von Matt, then studied graphic design in Germany and decided, that fashion would suit him best. Receiving a scholarship for St. Martins in London he started to create his ambitious Hamansutra empire. PingMag met him in New York where he is planning to move next.

Interview by Uleshka
Images by Denis Pernath

You did graffiti for many years and worked as a graphic designer. In what way has that influenced the fashion designs you do now?

Everything I did was helpful to learn different techniques of dealing with problems. The way you face a wall for a graffiti freestyle, a throw up, you just go with an idea, completely raw and spontaneous and just do it - and sometimes I work in the same way with designing clothes: I use string, thread, cloth, leather and just face that dummy the way I would face a wall. Packaging in graphic design tought me a lot about creating 3D out of flat sheets, like a pizza box - a few folds and you have an object, but you have to think very well about how and in which order you fold them. The other way around, my fashion studies taught me a lot about imagining things in 3D. If you make a sketch for an outfit, you have to know, what it looks like from all sides, prepare your paper patterns in your head already, the material… you have to think very far in advance - so if I design a character now for a computer game, like I did for Deepend then that character also works in 3D right from the start, in my head.

I still do graphic jobs every once in a while, like that Nike job we did with Lessrain & W+K Amsterdam… and that again was pretty graffiti influenced.

Haman working on the Scorpions Team Posters for client Nike

So that comes down to the universal designer, who can do everything.

Exactly. Knowing all disciplines and techniques, being able to do it all; layouts, collages, drawing, photos, sketching, sewing, designing…. so no-one can tell you bullshit. But of course you have to focus at one point and in my case, that is definitely fashion.


Collages for fashion designer Ziad Ghanem ©Hamansutra

Collages for fashion designer Ziad Ghanem ©Hamansutra

Collages for fashion designer Ziad Ghanem ©Hamansutra

Collages for fashion designer Ziad Ghanem ©Hamansutra

During your studies at St. Martins, you went back to Germany for a couple of very unusual internships. You complained that most fashion students do all they can to work with big name designers and polish up their image, rather than try to develop their own style. You had one work experience as an assistant for Kostas Murkudis and also worked for the Bavarian State Opera in Munich as a Costume Assistant for the “Twilight of the Gods” and other projects.

Twilight of the Gods - sketches and transformations ©Hamansutra

Twilight of the Gods - transformations ©Hamansutra

What - in the world - made you go and get a 2 month assistant ship at the Clothing Department of the German military forces in Munich?

The military has nothing to do with fashion. If you are a soldier you lose your personality and turn into a function. That also applies to what they wear: every part of their outfit has a purpose. There are things like G-suits, pressure suits, that you cannot wear without an assistant. On the whole, there is a lot of care, many details and many secrets in their clothes. I very much like the fact, that you have to think about what you wear, how you wear it, in what order you put on your clothes. That is almost like a ritual, a ceremony. I actually like to produce clothes, that need a manual to be worn (smiles). That increases their importance and awareness.

How were you treated by the military forces in Munich?

Most people don’t know that there even is a clothing department of the military forces and I was the first assistant after 35 years.

So many fashion designers steal ideas and copy things from soldier uniforms and stuff like that, but they actually don’t know anything about it. I went through the whole thing of studying all the different ranks, how the uniforms differ for all their departments, air-pressure-suit, diving-suit, parachutes jumping suits….


Military prototype © Hamansutra

Haman with his assistant from the German Military Forces © Hamansutra

They didn’t quite understand why I wanted to work for them, but after they listened to what I had in mind, they were really open and enthusiastic. At the end, they even thanked me and considered announcing possible internships at the fashion schools around Germany.

One of their workers turned into my personal assistant now. She has over 30 years of experience with leather, cuts and everything. I am very happy that she is so enthusiastic to work for me.

After four years of studies - you were among those selected for the St. Martins graduate show, which is packed with headhunters from all the big fashion houses. What was the concept of your collection?

Final Fasion Show - catwalk and oversea suitcases ©Hamansutra

Final Fashion Show ©Hamansutra

To provoke and make history within one second. Seriously! You study 4 years for 1.5 minutes of a fashion show, so you’d better think of something new.

I created a fashion line for female bodybuilders inspired by cyborgs and created out of pressure suit pants. They carried huge oversea suitcases, which I also designed as part of the collection. If you staple those 4 suitcases on top of each other, you have a whole wardrobe. You can also open and unfold the suitcases to a flat, standing dividing wall. Here is where I can use my packaging design studies for fashion accessories.

Why bodybuilder women?

I am tired of those bloody catwalk shows with walking coat-hangers. I am much more interested in characters, people with a strong personality. Those women are very powerful and extremely energetic. They really wanted to do this and that made me very happy to see. Above all, I like the martial aspect of it.


Baby’s got a temper, Babybag ©Hamansutra

Shoes for final fashion show ©Hamansutra

What does the body mean for you in your work?

It is amongst the things which inspire me most. The architecture of the body and also the inner organs. My outfits should be organic, they should fit the body and they should preferably all be tailor made.

What materials do you like to use?

For the final fashion show in May 2004 I made a whole collection out of one pair pressure suit pants. The people who created such pants in the 60ies almost vanished from this planet, so I mostly had to teach myself all about them. I wanted to show just how much knowledge and skill lies in one pair of these pants - and transformed and used them in my own way.

In general, I really like to work with leather. It is a very serious material, since you are not allowed to make any mistakes (if you make a hole in the wrong spot, you can’t hide it anymore). I very much respect the fact that it is skin and always try to find a way to leave it in one piece if possible and work it around the human body.


Leather accessories ©Hamansutra

Leather accessories ©Hamansutra

Leather accessories ©Hamansutra

Leather accessories ©Hamansutra

Besides leather, I use special-effect fabrics, hard cloth like jeans and science fiction and high technology fabrics.

You call your outfits “prototypes” if they are not part of a whole fashion line. Are they actually wearable, or do they only last for one day?

They are “bombensicher” ! Meaning, that they are properly made, since I take care of every detail, but due to their distinctive features, I wouldn’t recommend to wear them more than once. If you book Hamansutra to create an outfit for your Oscar nomination, you should learn to live with Hamansutra and definitely book him again for the next nomination and not just wear that first outfit again (yeah!).


Hamansutra T-Shirt collection ©Hamansutra

Hamansutra T-Shirt collection ©Hamansutra

Such kind of outfit would be made to work only for one night, however, if I make a ready-to-wear collection, like T- Shirts or jeans or so, I want those to be worn for a long time, like a second skin and combined with different things. I am not interested in dressing people for one season only. I prefer to create things that last - despite all those marketing people telling you about “trends”. People should think about the things they wear and therefor things should be considered valuable again and kept longer.

Who should wear your stuff and how should you feel, when wearing it?

Basically everybody, but preferably people with a strong personality, characters or those, who want to be characters. And if you feel like a knight, a hero or a queen when dressing in Hamansutra - it rocks!


Suit for German Basketball Team ©Hamansutra

Suit for German Basketball Team ©Hamansutra

You moved back from London to Munich for “relaxation”, even though you work all the time: the suit for the German basketball team, an outfit for the “Geiz is Geil” ad of German company Saturn and the outfit for the Sonique video “Another world”, - which just won the IF communication award 2005 - to name a few of your finished projects. How long does it take you to create an outfit?

That depends how many accessories and other details are included, but if I have one week for one outfit, than that is perfect. Some big studios do that in a couple of hours, but I don’t know how many assistants they’ve got. I only have one so far.

How do you actually produce your outfits?

I firstly try to make a lot with my own hands. You have to be practical and able to create a whole prototype with simple methods. I am also interested in perfecting things with a computer, like we did with the Sonique video.


Sonique video still © Designliga

design and final prototype for the Clone ©Hamansutra

Sonique head piece ©Hamansutra

Sonique video still © Designliga

What are your most recent projects and your future plans?

My Hamansutra Lookbook is out in the stores and I just created an outfit for Amos, whose new album will be out on the 24th of October. We will also produce another video for him together with Designliga like we did for Sonique.

Then I am currently working on an accessory collection out of leather as my first project to be presented in Japan. That will be finger-rings that are a mix of hip hop and gothic, some overhand accessories, galoshes / overshoes… things like that out of black snake… and then I’m also working on a collection for prostitutes, models around 40 years old, showing off their wrinkles…. I’d love to show those characters, but that is still a budget problem.


Hamansutra Lookbook ©Hamansutra

working on the Amos outfit ©Hamansutra

Amos finished suit ©Hamansutra

Amos website screenshot

I’ve got new ideas popping up constantly…. besides I am planning to move and set up my own studio in New York next spring. Then it will be Haman Alimardani working for the Hamansutra label to create clothes with ceremony.

Sounds cool, Haman! Good luck! I’m sure we will hear a lot from you in the future! Thank you very much!

65 Comments

  1. DA SIND WIR MAL GANZ STOLZ AUF DICH HAMAN..DAS IST ECHT TOLL..
    BOL BOL SANSLAR DILIYORUM..

    ÖPTÜM ;)
    Y*

    Posted by: yasemin on October 12th, 2005 at 1:49 am

  2. hiho haman.

    schöne sache, das les ich mir mal durch. habs eben nur überflogen!
    manmanman, demnächst schreibt die ganze modewelt über Dich, was?

    ich glaub, ich lass mich auch mal von Dir durchstylen ;)

    lass mal wieder blicken,
    gruß und kuss,
    Dein marius

    Jung von Matt

    Posted by: Marion on October 12th, 2005 at 1:50 am

  3. hallo meine süsse!

    this is Mrs.Luiza Flade writing to you. Na wie gehts? i loved ready all
    about what you’ve been doing and where you going next. when you are
    really famous i hope you remember us still!

    big hugs from London
    Luiza xxxx

    p.s i should have got you to design my wedding dress doh!

    Posted by: Luiza Flade on October 12th, 2005 at 1:51 am

  4. baby, ich bin stolz auf dich.

    grüße slick rick “samir”

    Posted by: Samir on October 12th, 2005 at 1:53 am

  5. fabulous Haman, you are a BIIIIIIIG star! Great interview, really really
    good!
    where can I get the T-shirts?!
    I’m not a prostitute, but I am a 40-something with wrinkles… ;)
    all the veryveryveryvery best
    Alison

    Posted by: Alison on October 12th, 2005 at 1:54 am

  6. sehr schön mein freund.
    da geht ja was.
    schaugst a moi in dein briefkasten.

    aldi

    http://www.andreas-hosch.com

    Posted by: Andreas on October 12th, 2005 at 1:55 am

  7. sehr fein, haarman!
    wird noch was aus dir ;-)

    gruß aus grubenzoll
    longsen

    Posted by: Longsen on October 12th, 2005 at 3:57 am

  8. oide wuaschthaut,
    weiter so… und meld dich mal wenn du wieder da bist

    Posted by: Tommy on October 12th, 2005 at 4:02 am

  9. Fantastisch! Ich würde gerne die dänische Fußballnationalmanschaft von Ihnen einkleiden lassen. Vielleicht was mit Fransen im Schritt oder einer Netzaplikation am Hinterteil?!

    Posted by: Morten Olsen on October 12th, 2005 at 4:29 am

  10. scary as hell….all that darkness around that day….its like a big black carpet rolled out as far as the eye can see….and then I found a email……entered this page……………. see a light….. its small as a little spark, but it cut a path straight through all that blackness….thanks Haman……..you made my day………rock on!!!!

    da dream!!!!!!!!!

    Posted by: Akeem on October 12th, 2005 at 5:54 am

  11. hey hamansutra,
    when you in NYC again?

    How’s shit in munich, Mr. Gottschalk says your stuff is freaky….
    Anyway, kiss me
    thank for your shirt. it fits perfect and it’s really Hot!

    P.

    Posted by: paris hilton on October 12th, 2005 at 7:08 am

  12. whow! Paris Hilton!!!!
    I totally underestimated Haman’s friends……

    Posted by: uleshka on October 13th, 2005 at 7:30 pm

  13. harmani looking good, looking good, its great to see all the stuff together in an interview, keep on making us proud. its from the heart.

    Posted by: sammani on October 13th, 2005 at 8:41 pm

  14. Wow, this is a really cool feature!

    V :)

    Posted by: Vassilios on October 14th, 2005 at 1:33 am

  15. go haman go haman go haman !! what a great interview!

    hope all is well with you??? all looks great so keep up the good work and i’ll keep
    you posted if anything comes up.

    Take care

    Lxx

    Liz Brown
    Small Japanese Soldier

    Posted by: Liz Brown on October 14th, 2005 at 1:38 am

  16. Super Sache - schön zu sehen was die alte Graf Force aus Munich so
    macht!

    Big Up aus´m Westend
    Kent

    Posted by: matthias on October 14th, 2005 at 8:43 am

  17. amAZING!!!

    Posted by: ron jonzo on October 14th, 2005 at 8:45 am

  18. Cool stuff Haman.

    KLEFT Magazin is coming out this week
    ( :

    Let me know your current address so I can send you a few copies
    best
    Kevin

    http://keepleftstudio.com/

    Posted by: kevin on October 14th, 2005 at 9:00 am

  19. Hey Haman,
    hab die e-mail von Barbara geschickt bekommen.
    Der absolute Wahnsinn!!!!!
    Da kommt mir ja die Meisterschule für Mode noch langweiliger vor als sie eh schon ist:)
    Liebe grüße
    Lena

    falls es was neues gibt:lena.schmieder@hotmail.de

    Posted by: Lena on October 14th, 2005 at 3:49 pm

  20. baba, khol schodi dige? besar berim dochtärbazi!

    bis montag!

    Posted by: el ektro on October 14th, 2005 at 10:55 pm

  21. sauber sog ie!alter perser knödel!

    Posted by: sneaka on October 15th, 2005 at 12:59 am

  22. Hi Bro,

    bin stolz auf Dich.
    send me soon as you can the NYC Pict.

    best regards.

    Posted by: Hamun on October 15th, 2005 at 6:34 am

  23. bon jour,
    wow, bin schwerst beeindruckt, von einigen sachen.
    deine seite find ich super cool - hat was von
    http://www.hedislimane.com/
    wünsch dir nen angenehmen tag.

    eve

    GQ Moderedaktion

    Posted by: eve on October 15th, 2005 at 9:51 pm

  24. I fancy a pair of those gold pressure pants! Very Daft Punk

    Posted by: Euan Millar on October 16th, 2005 at 2:08 am

  25. Hi Hamansutra,
    I am pleased to hear that your book has received such great reception in
    the cities. I know that you will do very well.
    Good luck and best regards,

    Gina

    Posted by: gina from NYC on October 16th, 2005 at 3:32 am

  26. Hi Haman
    its great to hear that your doing well, keep going:))))) and when are coming to London?????
    good luck
    take care
    fatma

    Posted by: Fatma on October 17th, 2005 at 1:39 am

  27. Woooord to da Haman,
    scheee gmacht!

    Posted by: Flavour Flori on October 18th, 2005 at 5:32 am

  28. Hey Haman!
    Big up!!
    cheers,
    Christian

    http://www.c100studio.com/

    Posted by: C100 on October 21st, 2005 at 6:16 pm

  29. Todo Teheran,

    mach weiter so!

    Saludos de Valencia,

    Peter

    Posted by: Peter on October 21st, 2005 at 9:25 pm

  30. Hi Hamansutra,
    you are the next star!
    work with us! Hope you enjoed NYC couple weeks ago.
    Big Up and greets also from the russergirl.
    Chris

    Posted by: Chris on October 29th, 2005 at 1:30 am

  31. Hi Hamansutra,
    you are on the st.martin list.
    Great stuff and come back to london town.
    best regards

    Karry

    http://www.arts.ac.uk/alumni/22455_22496.htm

    Posted by: Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design on October 29th, 2005 at 1:34 am

  32. 美国走狗是日本！！！！

    Posted by: Anonymous on June 10th, 2006 at 9:41 pm

  33. mein lieber schwan, HAALLLOOOOO HAMAN!!!

    war schön über dich zu lesen im ping magazin!
    keep up the good work.

    warst du denn schon mal in japan/tokyo?
    die würden deine sachen LIEBEN!!! da bin ich mir
    ganz sicher. ich war bis jetzt 2 mal da und habe
    natürlich so plastikfiguren kaufen müssen… die
    sehen genausoaus wie deine models!
    na ja, fast genauso.
    und die leute auf der strasse teilweise auch! hihi.
    ne echt, super-cool was du machst.

    ich drück dich feste und wünsch dir alles erdenklich gute!
    agnes

    Posted by: agnes bruegger on September 15th, 2006 at 9:38 pm

  34. warum beendet niemand diese lobhudelei!2008 und noch immer kein star..! suuper

    Posted by: werauchimmer on June 19th, 2008 at 5:04 am

    1. What was your favorite PingMag article?

    Well, #1 should be Hardcore fashion from Hamansutra.

    I think PingMag is the only magazine who featured him. Especially if you live in Japan, it is hard to read about “hardcore” ambitious artist like him. I feel lucky to get to know him through Ping.

    I would love to read more “making things” articles like that one.

    Posted by: Nishina on October 6th, 2008 at 1:18 am

  36. fantastic!

    Posted by: Chris Cunningham on October 12th, 2008 at 3:47 am

  37. very interesting detail of your work … remind me the story
    board for costume
    of film like BLADE RUNNER and many more science fiction movie ….
    keep doing the good job

    WK

    Posted by: WK interact on October 12th, 2008 at 3:52 am

  38. dear Haman,
    I like your straightward approach, and find your design work very innovative.

    Be in Touch
    Lebbeus

    Posted by: Lebbeus Wood on October 12th, 2008 at 3:59 am

  39. GENIUS. He’s a brilliant designer

    bill

    Posted by: bill cosby on October 13th, 2008 at 2:00 pm

  40. hi hamansutra,
    please visit me in queens.

    takashi

    info@kaikaikikiny.com
    5-17 46th Road
    NY 11101 Long Island City

    Posted by: takashi murakami on October 26th, 2008 at 5:08 pm

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